FIVE STATES OUTBACK FLIGHT JULY 2016

Just past the shortest day and with winter frosts descending, the lure of Australia’s great red centre is compelling.
The sheer enormity of the Great Victoria, Simpson, Strzelecki and Gibson desserts. The Channel Country with its huge cattle and sheep stations. The vast inland system of dry creeks which when the occasional rains do come, feed into a network of inland rivers which ultimately drain into our usually dry land-locked lakes.
Flying over this vast country is always a unique quest for adventure, and the beauty of the ever-changing scenery as viewed from far above is truly remarkable.
The tiny towns and hamlets that support this sparsely populated country are the very heartbeat of our outback communities.
Meeting the folk who live in and work this great land is always a highlight.  To listen to and share their stories, which unfold at the close of each day, is a priceless experience.
And so we are off again in theUGlyDuckling, VH-UGD, a Cessna 172M, on another chapter of life’s big adventure.
From Kyneton in Central Victoria through New South Wales and  South Australia, then  heading further North to the red centre of the ‘Territory”. On through the vastness of outback Queensland, and the ‘back-blocks’ of New South Wales before returning to Kyneton.
Staying at such legendary settlements as William Creek beside the enormous salt lakes of Lake Eyre, and the nearby painted hills of Anna Creek, visible in true colour only from the air.
And Oodnadatta known by some as ‘the arsehole of South Australia’, an
unflattering term that wrongly discounts the attraction and warm welcome of the famous ‘Pink Roadhouse’, at the start of the Oodnadatta track.
The Kulgera Pub with its runway beside the Stuart Highway just inside the Northern Territory border, and its rightful claim as ‘the first and last pub in the NT’.
A landing for fuel only at Ayres Rock, followed by the obligatory circuit round the rock and the nearby Olgas before heading off a further 43nm to Curtin Springs Station for the night.
This privately owned cattle station of over one million acres is a veritable oasis in the red centre. With comfortable accommodation, and meals with the owners and staff, and relaxing in the famous 'bough-shed' at dusk with the massive outline of Mount Connor in the distance.
Across the wide red sands to Alice Springs before a 325nm flight across the Simpson Desert to Birdsville. 
Then on through some tiny hamlets of central NSW; some with populations well below one hundred, and finally to Narromine and Temora on the return flight to Kyneton.
Monday 4th July 2016
Yesterday it looked possible we would not get away today, but we have.  The report for the track(s) at Wentworth was ‘heavy’ so we decided to head to Swan Hill, top up a  bit, and then on to Pooncarie.
Average weather with cloud at 2,500 leaving Kyneton and a  brisk northerly breeze, which kept the ground speed down to 80-90Kt until Swan Hill, where we landed on runway 33 and adjourned to the terminal for lunch, catered for by the plumber.
Corn beef and pickle sangas, pieces of lasagna for those so inclined, and mandarins for vitamin C I guess. He has set a high standard at a very early stage. Sure it won’t last!
It was refreshing to see our local country so green north of Bendigo after long drought, with winter crops sprouting and further fields prepared for planting.
Across the Murray
Crops planted, looking good!!


I scored my landing at Pooncarie as a 10, assisted by a very long smooth gravel runway, and a considerable drop in the wind.
We called the publican on the courtesy phone and were transferred into the Telegraph Hotel some 500 metres away.
And have a nice clean twin cabin here, and tea with the locals will be on from six.

The climate here is still not conducive to shorts and tee-shirt, but we are hoping to discard winter garb within the next day or so.
Todays run--only about 250nm

Tuesday 5th July
It is interesting how minute communities like Pooncarie survive. With a current population of forty, what holds the place together must be pretty fragile. The population was seventy about twelve months ago, but then with a couple of marriage stuff-ups and families moving on the population rapidly declined. Josh and Lee in the pub are a young couple, wide eyed and bushy tailed, and keen to make a go of both their marriage and the business. But with one little daughter about four and a brand new two weeks old baby, what future is there here for them? I hope it is very bright. 
But the nearest school is Mildura, and the bus stop is thirty km south of here, at the junction of the Mungo Park road. 
There is no kindergarten, no play school, and nothing to occupy young people, and no employment prospects for teenagers. 
Yet the community seems very cohesive and supportive. Apart from the pub, there is a shop/cafe, and an electrician and several other trades. And quite a few miners camped about 50km to the west, mining sands: they frequent the pub a bit and generally play havoc!
The passing tourist trade is no doubt the lifeblood of the area and the main source of income. 
The units here are clean and reasonable, and they cook great country meals! So who are we to complain!
Breakfast this morning was a short waddle down the main street dodging the peak hour traffic and obeying the traffic signals.
There has been about 3mm rain overnight and the road from here to Wentworth and through to Broken Hill has been closed—and the alleged fine is up to $1000 per wheel. It seems this red dirt turns to heavy mud when it gets wet, and the road signs mean business.
After sausages, eggs and bacon we were driven out to the strip by the all-day breakfast proprietors.
Darling River on climb our of Pooncarie
Ths flight to Broken hill was below low cloud and generally at 1500 feet. As YBHI is nearly 1000’ AMSL we needed to climb to circuit height which was just at the cloud-base. However, an uneventful flight followed by a landing on the long runway 23, and we are camping in the aero Club ‘Dongas’.
It’s still very cool, but we have the run of the clubrooms, with a good gas fire, a well stocked fridge, TV and all mod cons.
Local Club Fuel
Todays Milkrun
Quite a bit of traffic in here during the afternoon, several Rex flights from Mildura, Wagga, Sydney, plus a lot of light aircraft movements. And of course it is a major base for the Flying Doctor.
The Shearer was great!!
Add caption

RFDS Base
There are 36 RPT flights into YBHI each week. 
Local
member Laurie has been here to entertain us for an hour or so, and organise our linen and 'donga' facilities. He started flying at 56, and is now well into his eighties and still commits aviation regularly. Hope for an ‘ole bloke yet!



Wednesday 6th July
Toasted the remaining sagas for dinner last night, together with the dreaded lasagna; which is really nothing more than sheets of cardboard with a scraping of Pal layered between.
And the plumber heated a frozen container of Indian take-away, which really made him stand on tip-toes!
Much colder than Faraday here, so we settled in front of the fire with a couple of warming coldies.
And we had visitors.
Firstly, the local model flying club for their AGM. Much debate about who should be office bearers, only six of them, so the each got an exhaulted position.
And much later, a visit from Security!
A real wanker, with nothing much to do.
So he made himself at home. And told us his life story.
Riveting stuff!.
A great sleep in our ‘donga’, and up early this morning for coffee in the terminal.
Still low cloud hanging about and pretty cool. We will sit it out for a while and when the base lifts will be off to Leigh Creek where we have booked into the caravan park. 
The cloud had lifted a bit by 10am, so we packed up and taxied to the fuel bowser. As OzRunways says, ‘No BP Card, no avgas!’  We had a BP card so no problems.

Then warmed theUGlyDuckling, back-tracked over 2Km on runway 23 and lifted off for Leigh Creek.

Above: Lake Frome, and just West of YBHI
Pretty low cloud again, and we were about abeam Lake Frome before we could climb on top, and stayed there for a while at 5000’, the highest altitude yet!.
                              On top, 5000
And then down through a hole as the Cu became more dense, just in time to get around Mt Hack at 3478' and quite a bit of tiger country. 

                             Abeam Mt Hack
Managed to maintain 4000 and keep right of this hill, and then things cleared a lot and we got into Leigh Creek without any problems.
Called the Caravan Park, and a bloke came out to collect us. 

Booked in there to a nice tidy twin cabin for only $80 bucks then got a ride to the Tav, a Km away, just in time to miss lunch!
Since the coal-mines closed here, the population has fallen from several thousands to just on fifty. The town has amenities for many more, and now relies heavily on the tourist trade. Quite a few stronad outfits in the park which will help. We may yarn with them tonight.
And we will do our bit for the economy!!


                                                          YBHI-YLEC


Thursday 7th July  
A great meal in the Tav, which despite the small resident population was very busy with meals, including many take-aways. So the touries are doing their bit. Got a ride back to the caravan park with the bosses wife from the supermarket.
It seems Leigh Creek is in pretty dire straights following the Adani coal mine mob being released from their lease on the place.
The  present town was constructed by the S.A. government only in 1982, built with all modern amenities including numerous houses for mine workers, a huge supermarket, medical centre, heated swimming pool, all sealed roads with curb and channeling, schools and other services.
With coal mining ceasing abruptly in only March this year, the population has fallen dramatically from some 2,500 to only 50-100 today.
The local Progress Association is very proactive in endeavoring to re-invigorate the town with an emphasis on the passing tourist trade.
And so we bid farewell to our hosts at the caravan park and were driven out to the airport, re-fueled the UGlyDuckling and lifted off for William Creek.
Very calm air, but cold and overcast and we had the heater on most of the way.
The cloud base lifted however and we were able to maintain 6000’ in cruise.
Superb views from up there, firstly as we passed to the east of Lake Torrens, and further on over the southern

end on Lake Eyre South with the huge expanse of Lake Eyre North on the distance.
A very light shower of rain approaching William Creek, and some traffic transiting Lake Eyre on tourist trips, and virtually nil wind as we landed on the sealed strip right behind the pub!
Just before the ‘final call’ for lunch, which was a giant hamburger each.
We have booked into a twin cabin here for two nights. With en-suite, and a good HEATER—it is still bloody cold!!.  The TV won’t work but that’s not important—I hear there’s been an election down south, but there are many far more important local stories here!
Heaps of 4WD’s and people everywhere, about to tackle the Oodnadatta track, which starts at the pub. Both the pub and the caravan park with camping grounds are full.
In the evening we met up with Trevor the proprietor, and Andy, one of his many pilots.
And what a character Trevor Wright is!!
A real snappy dresser with tattered jeans and an op-shop jumper, a bit like the writer!! But a very snappy businessman and
raconteur.
The pub is doing a roaring trade and has been expanded since Heather and I flew in here in the ‘Great Air Race’.
Trevor, trading as Wrights Air, has a formidable stable of aircraft including 2xC210’s, 2xC182’s, a GA Airvan, 2 or 3 C206’s, 2x172’s. And now there is a Cessna Caravan on order!!
They usually have 3 or 4 aircraft in the air at once, doing joy-flights over Anna Creek and of course, Lake Eyre.
He and Andy were very interested in our adventures in Kupang, and want to see some pictures of our incarceration, tomorrow night. We will oblige.
They have suggested a slight alteration to our proposed route.  Next Oodnadatta as planned, then Cadney Homestead instead of Kulgera Roadhouse, before Ayers Rock.
Apparently a better strip at Cadney, and they DO have an avgas bowser, plus meals and accommodation.  Sounds like a good idea!
After a nice feed of flathead tails for dinner (and it’s a long way from the ocean) we camped comfortably in our cabin with the heater on full!

Friday 8th July
A cold morning again, but clear skies and full sunshine to warm the soul. But still not in uniform yet!
A photo session before breakfast, there’s a lot of interesting things to record. Then eggs bacon and tomatoes to keep the fuel supply up until lunchtime.
William Creek is actually ON Anna Creek station, the world’s biggest cattle station of 23,777sq km, or 5,873,000 acres. A fair sized hobby farm I guess, about the size of Wales or Israel. Established by none other than Sidney Kidman, after which Kidman’s hens (emus) were named.
Today has been a day of rest for me, with the TV working at last.
The Wrightsair aircraft started their tourist flights over Lake Eyre at 7am and there were three launched by breakfast time.
And the 4WD vehicles flooded in all day; what a gold mine this place is!
At dinner time, we had a yarn again with Andy, one of their pilots, and he was fascinated to have a look through some of our Indonesian photos!! He will be ferrying a C210 down to Horsham Aviation in the morning for maintenance.  All their aircraft
are looked after by Tony Brand.
I have organised with Trevor to get some avgas in the morning before we leave for
Oodnadatta.

Saturday 9th July
The first two scenic flights took off right on 7am, just as the sun started to break through. Another couple of grand in the till before breakfast!
So we rose and helped the takings a bit with bacon, eggs and tomatoes.
The wind was all crosswind during the morning with the sock out at right angles to the runway. Without exaggeration, it must have been thirty knots.
A couple of the Wrightair flights came in OK, and then a Bonanza who said it was a real struggle. There is no cross-strip these days, but Trevor suggested we could taxi across the road (the Oodnadatta track!!) and use the dirt old 03 which has a bit of saltbush and is a bit rough, but would be almost straight into wind.
We sat it out for a while, but the wind didn’t abate and remained very gusty.
So taxied round to the Wrightair hangars and fueled up, and waited for the wind to ease.
But that didn’t happen, so at 1pm we fired up theUGlyDuckling and cautiously taxied  across the road, backtracked the disused 03, and took off for YOOD.
It was very rough down low and didn’t settle down till we were at 4,500 below scattered cirrus cloud.
And then a smooth flight to Oodnadatta, but only at 65-75Kts.
Out track basically followed the Oodnadatta track and the old Ghan railway line. The 4WD’s below could be seen battling the dirt.
Passed Mt Anna (873’), over ‘Peake’ and Old Peake, Algebuckina Hill and Mt Dutton.
On approach it was clear that the landing on runway 31 would be all crosswind, and indeed it was quite an exercise.
We tied down facing into a very strong and gusty breeze, and headed off to waddle about 2Km to the Pink Roadhouse, where we are staying in a nice air-conditioned unit in the caravan park.
To my great disappointment, there is no WiFi, no mobile coverage and Telstra have pulled the pin here for the present. All visitors are signing a petition to have the service re-instated. Telstra are corporate arseholes, but do pay a decent dividend, occasionally!
The next stop will possibly be Cadney Homestead, where we are told there is avgas available, and hopefully WiFi—I have quite a few days of ‘blog’ to publish!

Sunday 10th July
The wind kept up during the night, but by morning is was still again, but lightly raining, and dark clouds looking towards Cadney Station.
The plumber cooked up baked beans on toast for breakfast so we will need to keep up-wind of things for a while and wait till the wx improves.
Never known the outback to be so cool, and to have had so much rain this time of the year.

I will contact Cadney on the pedal wireless this morning and check on the runway conditions. If it’s too wet there, we could be spending another day in this backwater paradise!!
Contacted Cadney Homestead on the Telstra jingle eater, and somehow found out the wx is improving and there has only been about 5mm of rain, and the runway should be OK.
So fired up theUGlyDuckling and headed off. A smooth flight over ever changing scenery.
 
A couple of choppers were taking off as we approached and they were able to confirm the strip is fine, even though it doesn't matter much to them!
Landed here 2pm local, and have booked into a nice cabin at the back, with theUGlyDucking only a few metres away.

Monday 11th July
Awoke to a beautiful cold but sunny morning in the real outback with the UGlyDuckling moored just outside our window. 
Surely into shorts at last today!
 The Ghan line runs just behind Cadney Station.Have (sort of) skyped Curtin Springs and someone will go out and check their runway at 10am.
In the meantime we will fuel up with breakfast and avgas for the bird, before heading off 232nm to Ayres Rock for fuel only, and then a lap of the rock and the Olgas and on to Curtin Springs Homestead, a further 43nm.

They had 16mm rain yesterday (probably nearly a years supply), so hopefully the strip is OK, or it will be a night of rip-off at the ‘Rock.
Called Curtin Springs back shortly after 10am, and the strip is fine.
So we topped up 89 litres of avgas and headed off about 11am for Ayers Rock.
A long flight of 232nm to the Rock with lots of photos on the way. Only getting 70+ Kts again, so a slow trip also.
Cruised at 7,500-8,000’ and passed over Aston Minor, Wintinna Hill, Mintabie opal fields, Ernabella and Mr Everard (4023’) and Mulga Park just over the Territory border.
From here the Rock, the Olgas and Mount Connor were visible 100nm out.
Eventually landed on runway 31 at the Rock, with lots of traffic in/outbound.
Re-fueled here (112 Ltrs) then on a further 43nm Curtin Springs.
Buzzed the homestead down low, and by the time we had landed and tied down Ashley was there in the 4WD to drive us back to the homestead.
We will be here two nights, and tomorrow will be a day
of rest before heading off to Alice on Wednesday 13th.

Tuesday 12th July
After dinner last night in the outdoor 'bough-shed', I had a long chat with Peter Severin, the ‘Father’ of Curtin Springs.
 He and his wife arrived here in 1956 and built an 

‘outback shack’ on what is now a cattle station of 1,600 square miles or some 1,260,000 acres.
Peter and three others erected the climbing chain all the way up Ayers Rock many years ago.
Peters’ son Ashley and his wife Lyndee run the place these days, with the help of about 20 staff.
However, Peter at 88, still rises at 5am each day and does his bit.
Mount Connor, which is located on their property, at 36 miles around, is three times bigger than Ayers rock. There are also several salt lakes on the property, and over 100 bores have been sunk for water, most of which are brackish but the homestead water is quite soft and drinkable.
Mt Connor looks brilliant on approach to land, and during the day the colors change constantly.
Tourist buses and 4WDs flock in here all day and the ‘other’ part of the business—accommodation, meals, a shop and bar are now a major source of income from the station, in addition to cattle, which are mainly Murray Greys. 

From age-old mustering on horseback, through quad bikes and then by aircraft, things have changed and today the cattle muster themselves by a system of ‘water traps’—huge cattle yards surrounding a bore have a one-way entrance. The cattle come in to drink, and that’s it!
A huge diesel generator with back up unit runs day and night providing power for the homestead and visitor accommodation, workshops, vast cool-rooms, heating, cooling, cooking, the lot.
Management have healthy disrespect for the constant ‘burning’ by the ‘traditional owners’, and constantly need to remind the do-gooders that they as custodians of this vast pastoral property also care for the land, respect the environment and work with it and not against it.
Camels and other introduced pest species are regarded with the disrespect they deserve and are ‘processed’ accordingly.
After recent rains the native grasses have sprung to life and the return of the 5 to 7 year rain cycle has been warmly welcomed, even though for us, it’s bloody cold!!
The land looks green and lush from above, and the sunsets are to kill for!!


Wednesday 13th July
 
Happy Birthday to my darling eldest daughter--50 years today!!  (I had to get married at 12!!!)
Another very cold morning at Curtin Springs, it must be all that global warming. 
And so we rugged up again, packed up to head off to the tropics of Alice Springs. One of the station hands drove us the three Km out to the airstrip and we loaded up in the freezing wind.
Great view of Mount Connor as we lifted off, then the salt lakes on Curtin Springs Station.
A bit of crosswind for take off, and then of course, a strong headwind and pretty rough all the way to Alice. 

Across the Peterman ranges, and followed the Lassater Highway for a while, 

with road trains and stronad outfits below.

 A lot of RPT including Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin inbound, and the tower was great. 


Contacted them at 30nm and tracked via VFR route 6 at 4000 and then cleared to join base for runway 12, and after landing directed to the GA area for fuel and tie-down.
A taxi into town cost $45 but I’ll bet the poor Indian driver didn’t get much of that! Booked into the Todd Tavern which is good value and central, and quite  luxurious compared to the sands of the Todd river!
It was 4pm by the time we had lunch here, so it will be a late meal this evening.
We will stay an extra day in this metropolis, the temperature is expected to be ONE DEGREE overnight.
We will try and rent a car for today, but with local holidays they seem a bit scarce.
Hopefully a bit warmer and possibly a tail wind for a change on Friday, for the flight to Birdsville.
After all, QLD is meant to be the ‘Sunshine State’ and that’s something we haven’t seen yet!! 


Thursday 14th July
We called all the rental places this morning, not one car available as they are all out due to the local holidays.
So we may have to have a look about on foot. My hand-crafted mobility aid will get a bit of a working out!
The town itself is very small, and there is an aviation museum within waddling distance. 
The waddling distance however turned out to be more than formidable, and hence we looked for other options.
The advertised on-off bus tour of the town ‘highlights’ is no longer running, so we decided on a walking tour of a few spots.
First stop was the Alice Mall and food court for sustenance of a good ‘Aussie’ Greek souvlaki with heaps of lamb, yoghurt and garlic to keep the flies at bay.
And then to the old Government residence with its original plush furniture and old world fittings, including a vintage rocking horse which the plumber insisted I test-ride—he sure is hanging out to get to a race meeting; perhaps at Carinda in about ten days time!.
As the town is a dementia friendly place, why not try and climb their version of Mt Everest; known as Anzac Hill?  At 1850’ AMSL it was would be a real challenge for this ‘ole bloke!
And it was, but somehow I made it!

Back at the Todd Tavern it was ‘schnitzel night’—chicken or beef schnitzel for ten bucks, and the place filled up to capacity.
Another freezing night, but a roaring fire in the dining area, and a good heater on our room.

Friday 15th July
The temperature bottomed at minus 3 degrees overnight, and the weather forecast is for more of the same, and with decent south-easterly wins forecast for the next four or five days.
So not much point sitting it out here any longer.
A forty dollar taxi ride to the airport, packed up theUGlyDuckling and warmed up, taxi clearance to the holding point of runway 12 as a Qantas B737 came in.
Held for a few minutes due wake turbulence, then off, climb to 4000 and call at fifteen miles.
Then resume own navigation for the 332nm run across the Simpson Desert to Birdsville.
The usual strong south easterly on the nose, but managed to maintain 80+Kts for a four-hour flight to Birdsville. 

A challenge to the bladder on this leg, but the on board hospital facilities proved useful, if somewhat difficult.
Taxied to park within 50 metres of the pub. 
Tied down between a couple of C210’s and some big twin bird.
Now, except for the races in September, the Birdsville pub is usually virtually empty except for a couple of local derros like us.
However, not so!!
Completely booked out with a large organised group of  4WD stronads.
So over to the caravan park—same issue!! They still had one couple booked but not in yet, and would let us know if they didn’t show!  But of course they DID!!
They suggested the only other option would be a cell at the local Police Station—a reasonable option without locked doors, if we didn’t mess-up! This could have been it--
Before negotiating this last resort, I pleaded again with the pub manager who is a local,
and remarkably he handed me the phone to Jena, who has just started an ‘airbnb’ place here.
Jena picked us from the pub, and drove us to the B&B—an excellent, clean, fully equipped three bedroom house with all mod cons, plus cereal, eggs and breakfast goodies included.
And even cheaper than the pub or caravan park!!
(Serious) problem solved!!!!!!  We will give her place a good plug on OzRunways!    




Saturday 16th July
With the whole house to ourselves, we had the best sleep since the trip started.

Cereal and toast for breakfast, just about bum-nutted out, so will save them for the morning.
The bakery is within trekking distance, so possibly there for lunch.
After the debacle with accommodation, I have started to try and skype our next stops to check on beds!!
Windorah tomorrow night, and I have had success there.
Will work on the others during today—it seems it is the camel racing season in the back blocks and for some bizarre reason they seem to have a huge following!!
Birdsville seems to have grown a bit since I first flew in here about 1992, and then again about 1997 for the races (which incidentally I have never seen).
There is even a bakery, a tourist information centre, a centrelink office (of course). 

And a lot of recent houses.
The tourist trade including lots of fly-ins like us, plus many, many stronads have no doubt boosted a lot of the outback places.
And they don’t get much more outback that here!
So we visited the bakery to try anything other than camel pies, the history display, and checked out the aircraft hadn’t blown away.
And Jena’s dad has a C210 parked here also, rego VH-BDV, I imagine he arranged that one somehow!!
Several other aircraft came in during the day, including a large twin with a load of visitors. Hope they have beds organized for tonight!
The plumber did a load of washing, his turn of course, and I had a good rest in our B&B.
I guess it will be the pub for tea again, but at least we have a great place to escape to for the night again.

Sunday 17th July

Last night at Birdsville, we met up with a couple of young(er!!) blokes who are flying around from somewhere south of Canberra. They were hitting it pretty hard in the bar, no doubt with the ‘eight hour bottle to throttle’ rule at heart!  It was about zero degrees and they were camping under the wing in swags. We suggested perhaps they would appreciate a bit of comfort as we had a spare room, but they were happy to sleep on the hard tarmac.
They would be up and leaving at 7:30am, but we watched them lift off at 10:30, just before we checked out!
Oh dear, I guess I did that years ago too!!
The plumber got into real housewife mode and cooked up a batch of curried bumnuts and made a heap of sangas for in-flight catering.
I think he must have not been feeling too well, as he then proceeded to wash all the dishes, sweep the floor, and put out the rubbish.
We eventually took off for Windorah at 1pm local, again with a mostly easterly breeze ad we were heading east-north-east!
The cloud base was only 2000 and pretty rough down there.
Eventually climbed up through a hole, and remained on top for most of the way at 6,500.
Out came the in-flight catering, and we can confirm that curried egg sandwiches are a good stimulant for the digestive system.
The airport at Windorah is about as secure as they get!
No need for ASICs here, just a wire gate with a sliding bolt.
Yet the tiny terminal has coffee and milk, aircon, and a free phone to call the only pub.
Which we did, and while we waited, a young bloke in a Robbo chopper dropped in, left the thing running as he climbed out and grabbed the fuel hose, topped up, replaced the hose and was off mustering again in less than a minute!
An interesting operation—‘hot’ re-fueling, no earth lead, and needless to say no fuel drain!
No mobile, or WiFi here. Population forty!! 

But the pub have a ‘portable’ fixed phone which patrons can use for a small donation to the RFDS.
So at last I was able to call Heather and have talk to her without the static or delay of  Skype in the outback.
That was a great bonus!!
Some interesting locals at the pub.
We met the young bloke from Quilpie who does the mail run.
Only 700Km a day, starting at 2am and finishing at 3pm.
Or a bit later if he drops a line in the Cooper to catch a few yellow-belly to take home.
Live brown frogs are apparently the best local bait!
His sister does a bit of cattle mustering in a C172!
Being a Sunday, dinner at the pub was a BBQ for all—chops, pork pieces, snags and heaps of salads.
Also had a yarn to a couple of stronads staying next door to us. One of the blokes formerly flew for Rex, but hasn’t for years, and is now attempting to re-validate a PPL.


Monday 18th July
We are off to Thargomindah today, another tiny outback gem, somewhere in the middle of the Bulloo Shire, basically the centre of nowhere the heart of ‘Matilda Country’.

Gota love these places, most with long sealed runways for the RFDS, a pub, a servo and a ‘shop’. And lots of characters.
A bright sunny morning for a change, and it will be definitely into shorts today.
After egg and bacon rolls for breakfast the publican drove us out to the airstrip.
The flight to Thargomindah was low and lumpy, but with a tail wind at last, sitting on 115kts for the first time since leaving YKTN.
This leg was over some interesting country including the Cooper Creek with many tributaries in flood, typical of the channel country after rain.
Over Raymore Homestead, Kyabra, and the tiny hamlets of Eromanga (pictured) and Mount Margaret.
Landed on the good gravel cross strip here, directly into wind with a cross wind over the long sealed runway.
Avgas aplenty with a Visa card, and into the tiny terminal with aircon, coffee machine and free phone!!
Called the Bulloo River pub for a free pick-up, and while we waited I was able to call Heather on the free landline and talk for a while!
Shirley (‘Daisy’) picked us up and settled us into a ‘motel’ room behind the pub. Only house guests I think!. But the locals hate a beer, and we were soon joined by many of them, plus a couple of stronads for dinner.
Couldn’t drink the water here, probably straight out of the river!
Don (‘Duck’) and Shirley run a pretty tight shop!

Tuesday 19th July
Checked out the local café for breakfast as ‘Daisy’ is on the local shire and had an early meeting! 

Then the tourist place, and the girl there made a couple of calls to Hungerford to book us in for tonight, also to check on the runway. Doesn’t get much mention on OzRunways, but a good sealed strip (RFDS of course!!)
Only a short leg today, so plenty of time to absorb the attractions of Hungerford, right on the QLD/NSW border, against the dog-proof fence!
This tiny border town was made famous by Henry Lawson’s short story, an excerpt of which I will add. The population these days is eight. Yes, EIGHT!!
But it will be at least TEN this evening!! But the roads are closed, so possible only fly-ins.
A ride out to the airport with ‘Duck’, and the cleaning lady there and was really on for a chat. I had hoped to use the ‘phone to call Heather, but the girlie just wouldn’t vanish—what a job she has, but then it is paid for by the shire!!
So we packed up and after pre-flighting thUGlyDuckling we were off for Hungerford.
The Dementia Friendly place we visited in Alice doesn’t seem to have worked, as I have left my mobility aid either in the terminal building at Thargomindah, or even possibly lying on the tarmac!
I will have to get it freighted back home somehow and in the meantime attempt to whittle another one.
A bit of a tail wind again, and only a forty minute flight to Hungerford, circled the pub a couple of times, and landed on the huge sealed runway about 4Km out.
The publican was out to meet us and drove us back into ‘town’, along the QLD side of the worlds’ longest fence!
Before long we had met all the locals of Hungerford, plus a couple of wayward stronads.
It had rained a bit the previous night, and at about 5pm is poured down here again for half an hour and the blood-red sand temporally turned to sticky mud.
Soon Marshy and Mac, combined age 170 years, called in for their daily outing. Marshy didn’t say much, but Mac at 90 next birthday was a wealth of knowledge.
He has lived here for over sixty years. 

Mostly on his own. Did get married later in life for a while, ‘but she was just after me money I think’. He worked for the pastoral company that owned most of the blocks round here.
Marshy was one of the lucky ones. His Dad had gone into the draw for a ‘block’ in the early 1950’s, and he got 43,000 acres with a bore and homestead on it for $30,000.

I remarked that that was a pretty big spread, but it was only one of the smaller lots.
Prospective purchasers could select a lot, and go into a draw, thirty marbles drawn out of a hat.
But much of the land offered had no improvements, fences or water, and many decided not to take them up. Others had not even bothered to inspect the land.
Marshy’s Dad did pretty well, and I think Mac still has a quid or three having been involved in the sheep and cattle industries all his life, including as a ringer and shearer and general manager.
Mac reckons he used to drink a lot, but these days only goes to the pub every day at 5pm and has his three scotches. Still drives an old Holden ute, and still has a T-Model Ford he bought new!
We wanted to shout them a round, but no, extreme independence.
Mac is getting a bit frail, and the RFDS nurse suggested he might like to try a nursing home in Cunnamulla for a while.
Reluctantly he did so, but only for a week. He got homesick and the place was filled with ‘boring old people’, so he ‘escaped’ and came home!!
Would he stay and have a feed in the pub with us? No, in the cold weather he likes to cook up a big pot of beef stew.
Because of the isolation here, they are able to purchase bulk frozen meat in huge lots at wholesale prices, and of course have giant freezers.
Can get 50Kg of frozen beef or mutton for about fifty bucks!!
And I’ll bet his stew is brilliant!
So we were the only ring-ins for dinner in the pub, giant chicken parmas with the lot. Also of course, the publican Graeme and his mate Phil.
This pub would have to be the greatest gem yet!
And the rooms: only three; all with the original sloping floors which have subsided over the years, corrugated iron walls, ancient timber roof, and old wooden doors which just don’t quite fit the hole they were made for.
Brilliant.
No mod cons, no basin, and as Mac suggested ‘if yer need to go to the outside bog, better take a cut lunch!’
The bar would hold a dozen or so comfortably, and the adjoining ‘dining room’ is just an extension of the kitchen.
But plenty of outside seating for weary travellers.
Most supplies come from Cunnamulla, or Bourke, both about six hours drive away.
The pub is also responsible for the mail run, which is taken to Cunnamulla twice a week.
The RFDS base here is formidable and includes a fully equipped surgery. The RFDS fly in for a clinic once a month!
Our beds were comfortable despite the sloping floor, and we slept well until the local rooster started up at five am.
After the inevitable bacon, eggs, tomato and toast for breakfast, Phil drove us out to the airport, next stop Louth! I wonder what surprises that little hamlet will hold!
Here is a bit of what Henry Lawson had to say:
One of the hungriest cleared roads in New South Wales runs to within a couple of miles of Hungerford, and stops there; then you strike through the scrub to the town. There is no distant prospect of Hungerford — you don’t see the town till you are quite close to it, and then two or three white-washed galvanized-iron roofs start out of the mulga.
They say that a past Ministry commenced to clear the road from Bourke, under the impression that Hungerford was an important place, and went on, with the blindness peculiar to governments, till they got to within two miles of the town. Then they ran short of rum and rations, and sent a man on to get them, and make inquiries. The member never came back, and two more were sent to find him — or Hungerford. Three days later the two returned in an exhausted condition, and submitted a motion of want-of-confidence, which was lost. Then the whole House went on and was lost also. Strange to relate, that Government was never missed.
However, we found Hungerford and camped there for a day. The town is right on the Queensland border, and an interprovincial rabbit-proof fence — with rabbits on both sides of it — runs across the main street.
This fence is a standing joke with Australian rabbits — about the only joke they have out there, except the memory of Pasteur and poison and inoculation. It is amusing to go a little way out of town, about sunset, and watch them crack Noah’s Ark rabbit jokes about that fence, and burrow under and play leap-frog over it till they get tired. One old buck rabbit sat up and nearly laughed his ears off at a joke of his own about that fence. He laughed so much that he couldn’t get away when I reached for him. I could hardly eat him for laughing. I never saw a rabbit laugh before; but I’ve seen a ‘possum do it.
Hungerford consists of two houses and a humpy in New South Wales, and five houses in Queensland. Characteristically enough, both the pubs are in Queensland. We got a glass of sour yeast at one and paid sixpence for it — we had asked for English ale.
The post office is in New South Wales, and the police-barracks in Bananaland. The police cannot do anything if there’s a row going on across the street in New South Wales, except to send to Brisbane and have an extradition warrant applied for; and they don’t do much if there’s a row in Queensland. Most of the rows are across the border, where the pubs are.
At least, I believe that’s how it is, though the man who told me might have been a liar. Another man said he was a liar, but then he might have been a liar himself — a third person said he was one. I heard that there was a fight over it, but the man who told me about the fight might not have been telling the truth.
One part of the town swears at Brisbane when things go wrong, and the other part curses Sydney.
The country looks as though a great ash-heap had been spread out there, and mulga scrub and firewood planted — and neglected. The country looks just as bad for a hundred miles round Hungerford, and beyond that it gets worse — a blasted, barren wilderness that doesn’t even howl. If it howled it would be a relief.
I believe that Bourke and Wills found Hungerford, and it’s a pity they did; but, if I ever stand by the graves of the men who first travelled through this country, when there were neither roads nor stations, nor tanks, nor bores, nor pubs, I’ll — I’ll take my hat off. There were brave men in the land in those days.
(Google 101)

Wednesday 20th July
After lifting off from Hungerford we were immediately out of QLD and into NSW, and the weather wasn’t improving.
Within five nm we were in moderate patchy showers of rain, and this continued almost all the way to Louth.
The amount of water lying about out here is remarkable, and many of the usually dry lakes and waterholes are flooded for the first time in many years.
Obviously leaving cattle country, with the occasional patches of dry land where sheep (and goats) were grazing—easily visible from the cloud base of 2000’!!
And lush green pastures, following an exceptional winter.
Followed the Paroo river for a while, past Cuttaburra Basin now full of water, Lake Burkanoko and Nichebulka likewise, and a lot of swampy land approaching Louth.

However with virtually nil wind, we maintained a good 115kts and things cleared a bit as we circled the ‘town’ (polulation 29!!) and landed on the long sealed east-west runway.
Dave the publican was out to collect us soon after we landed for the short ride back into town.
I asked him about the other Cessna tied down beside ours, and it is his. A ‘D model’ with Continental motor, the first series with a rear window.
He also has a C172G somewhere, but uses the local one for contract mustering.
Quite a bit of work available mustering both sheep and goats, and it involves flying low and loud to round up a scattered flock—reckons he nearly brushes the wheels on a sheep’s back now and then!!
We have booked into a ‘cabin’ behind Shindy’s Inn (the pub) for the night—more like a fully furnished modern two bedroom cottage.
New, heating which is needed here in the tropics, TV, full kitchen and ensuite.
And the view out the front is of the Darling river which is carrying a great lot of water down at the moment.
A very quiet night at the pub, as all the roads from up north and down to Bourke have been closed due to the rains. Hence no tourists, which are of course the main source of income.
We were the only ones for dinner.
I was able to call Heather on the landline from the pub, again with a donation to the RFDS which we are quite happy to support.
Apart from the pub, Dave and Cath must be doing it a bit tough—they have 40,000 acres down towards Bourke, and have just bought a larger block in WA!
Watched TV for a while in our ‘humpy’ and were very comfortable with the heater on full during the night!!


Thursday 21st July
After a good dingo’s breakfast Dave drove us the 500 metres or so out to the strip, packed up, per-flighted and took off in nil wind for the short hop to Bourke and fuel.
A good Shell swipe-card system at Bourke, and avgas at 2.26/l seemed Ok for out here.
Then taxied again and held while a private jet, maybe Falcon or Citation came in on a very long final.
Then we were off again for the 44nm run to Byrock.
Very low cloud again, and so just followed the Mitchell Highway beside the abandoned railway line, at 1000’.
Another long gravel strip, pretty wet and soggy, but all weather of course for the RFDS.
Circled the pub and Gail was soon there to drive us into ‘town’.
And what a town!! Population TEN (10). Wow, we sure are picking some gems, I just love places like this.
Pubs like Byrock are far more that just a ‘boozer’. They are also the local restaurant, motel (four rooms), 
caravan park, post office, public telephone, public hall, tourist information centre, bus stop, diesel supplier, snack shop, weather station and ‘newsagent’.
There has been over 30mm of rain here in the past 24 hours, and as our next proposed stop is Carinda when the annual cup and only race meeting for the year is scheduled for this weekend, it would be fine if things dried up a bit.
We have booked there for Friday and Saturday nights, but it is still very much unclear whether the event will go ahead.
I have contacted the Walgett Shire a number of times re: the runway condition. They have had heaps of rain, and the ‘winter herbage’ needs mowing on the strip.
They haven’t been able to get the machinery onto it yet due to further rain, and I need to call the bloke at 11am tomorrow to check on conditions.
And we hear the stewards still have to meet and decide if the cup will go ahead.
In the meantime we will brave the local crowds and sit it out here for a while.
Paul the owner at Byrock decided some years ago he'd like to learn to fly! ie: teach himself!  So, he bought a Thruster! After working out how to start it, he taxied up the runway a bit. Next time, a bit faster, faster, until it slightly lifted off. Next time it really became airborne, and he was thus a pilot!  He flew it round a bit until he had to land it, but the front part hit mother earth first and smashed the prop, which is on display in the bar!.
I think CASA would be interested in the number of bush pilots who are self-taught!!
After that, he took some formal lessons, and eventually bought a Cessna172 which is somewhere out at one of the properties they own!!!!
After dinner we sat in front of a great open mulga-wood fire with most of the locals and watched a repeat episode of The Vicar of Dibly on the idiot box!! Great entertainment.
The furniture in the pub is all made from Mulga-wood or Beef-wood, and the massive bar from Redgum. The workmanship in these timbers is superb and would have cost thousands.
Then off to bed in our  very comfortable ‘Room 1’ right next door.

Friday 21st July
No rain overnight, but there is still lots of water lying about. Rang the shire bloke who was going to organize to check and mow the bush strip for us, but hasn’t got it done yet. Gave me another number to check later. There is a bit of a breeze and the sun has broken through occasionally, so the place could dry out a bit.
One of the locals said he heard on the radio that the races will (probably) still be on!  The plumber will be wrapped if they are, as long as the runway is serviceable. We will wait further calls!.
After a light lunch, I called Mick at Carinda and he has nearly finished clearing the strip and reckons it is ok, and drying out well. We will leave here about 3pm.
Got a ride to the airport and took off for the short run to Carinda, with a bit of a breeze but in sunny skies.
After finding the ‘strip’ I flew very low down wind to have a good look at the surface. Its ‘herbage’ has certainly been slashed and it looked OK and very long, so cautiously approached and held off for a gentle flair and ground roll—no problems, but a bit soft where we were able to park on the edge of the strip.
To our surprise our phones worked and I was able to phone Malcolm at the pub for a ride into town.
Only to learn from him on the way in that the races had been cancelled!!!
However there were already heaps of people in town (usual population less than thirty), and the crowd built up during the evening.
We counted about 160 people crammed into the bar, the outside area and beyond by 9pm!
The races have been re-scheduled for mid-August, so the pub will make a killing again then!!
This place has nothing much to offer. Apparently some character called David Bowey came here once and had his photo taken in the pub. Khrist knows why he came here, or for that matter what significance if could possibly have. However the locals insisted we have our photo taken with he! 
He WILL now be famous!!  
So we will try and cancel for Saturday night and head off to Narromine.


Saturday 23rd July
There were some serious hangovers amongst the few locals who live in town this morning, and I wonder how the hoards of visitors  got home; or at least I hope they did!
The pub put on a greasy bbq breakfast for those remaining, out on the footpath at the front of the place.
I don’t think we will miss Carinda much!

Nor for that matter will they miss us. So with appropriate graciousness I cancelled our ‘booking’ for tonight on the basis that we had flown over 3000nm to go to the Carinda races and they have been cancelled.
All we asked was another ride out to the airfield and we would head off for Narromine.
However, I must admit that the poor council bloke had sprung into action to at least try and do some airfield preparation prior to our arrival.
I wonder if it had anything to do with me saying ‘I hear there are a few planes might be coming in from Scone!!.’ Strangely, we were the only ones!
There is nothing in ERSA about Carinda, and it sounded a bit doubtful on the AOPA country guide.
But the bloke sprung into action, got a local contractor to ‘mow’ (more like plough) the strip, and measured the length (1437 metres and width, and elevation!!!
When I first enquired the publican said ‘I think someone landed there a few months back, but just use the sealed road into town, that’s what the RFDS does!!.’
Now that they have made an effort, I hope they continue to keep it up, there much be a few who would like to experience this really outback place!
And a wind-sock wouldn’t go astray either, bloody hard to pick the winds on approach to a one-way strip!!
The flight to Narromine was pretty quick; above cloud most of the way and then down to 3,500 below, a few miles out.
There are massive flooded paddocks in this area and rivers well over the banks.
And some well groomed fields of canola some of which as just starting to flower.

Sunday 24th July
After settling into the Catalina ‘suite’ at the tourist park on the field at Narromine, 
we got a free ride into the All Services Club last night. The place was packed, most of the population of 3,500 must have been there.

Including a huge contingent of young bucks glued to the giant TV watching some sort of activity they call football, obviously excited that their team had a chance of winning at one stage.
Dejected and depressed beyond comprehension at the final result, they all filed back to the bar for serious medication. Meanwhile in the peace and quiet of the lounge area we were able to hear ourselves think, and to order a fine meal and relax in relative tranquility.
Our accommodation staff had provided us with $5 taxi vouchers for the ride home, and the cabby was a former flyer, and an Aussie to boot!.
So he was happy to get a fare out to his old stamping grounds and to talk propellers on the way!
After a late breakfast this morning, we visited the NEW Narromine Aviation Museum here on the field, only opened last month.
For those who have not flown in here for a while, it is a must see!
In pride of place is the replica Wright Flyer model A, flown for the first time in October 2005 by the late Col Pay during the visit of  none other than the great Buzz Aldrin to Narromine!!
Buzz dedicated the aircraft, and named it the ‘Spirit of Flight’, hence its registration of VH-SOF.
The plumber

and I were present on that weekend and had an informal lunch with the great man and our photos taken with him. 
And due to a serious lapse of security and despite a major wardrobe malfunction, we attended an exclusive black-tie dinner in the Bellman hangar with Buzz as guest speaker that evening!!
But, dear readers, that is another story which cannot be told here--just wait for the book which is presently in preparation. (Its availability will be advised of in these pages.)
What I find remarkable to this day is the lack of publicity and subsequent attendance by aviation buffs to this astonishing event, which I regard as one of the most significant of my lifetime!
I am not aware of one other pilot who flew in from Victoria. And to meet the second man to walk on the moon!!!
And so this evening we talked to a few interested ‘land-lubbers’ here in the lounge who were fascinated to hear of the visit by Buzz. And we watched the episode of Neil Armstrong’s descent to the surface, matched with recent film created by Google Earth!!

Monday 25th July
We will be off to Temora some time today, if the weather clears a bit. After breakfast,

it did slightly, so we packed up and headed off.
Only 137nm to Temora, but after the few miles, down came the rain and the conditions were vaguely VFR and with intermittent showers often right on track, and at 1000' most of the way to maintain some semblance of an horizon.
What a tropical holiday we are having!
After passing the pit just south of YNRM which perhaps the resident Faraday geologist can identify, 
it was all basically flooded cropping country with quite a few hills in mist to work around.
The flooded lands are so severe and unusual that the locals at Temora reckon the grain crops are stuffed for yet another year.
It is all due to human induced climate change of course and the farmers encourage everyone to ‘Doze a Greenie’ to save the earth.
Some signs in the real outback pubs are far less kind to this mob of tossers!
After an hour and a half we sighted Temora in the misty distance and it was great to finally land on runway 36 there.
Not a soul about, and after tying down we went over to the museum and called a taxi.
And are now entrenched in the Terminus pub, well known to derros who fly! 

With five pubs closed in Temora and many shops for rent, it seems a bit like a town in decline; the cabbie insists that the aviation Museum is one of the best saviors for the place, and the population expands dramatically on flying display days and during other aviation events.
Been here done that many times, so will leave it to the plumber to inject some funds into poor David Lowry’s coffers tomorrow.
A great meal of roast lamb in the bistro at the Terminus was the highlight of a pretty average day.
And with Telstra coverage again, I was able to call Heather back at 'Minto',  keeping the home fires burning.

Tuesday 26th July
Another day of flightless excitement in this cold, wet, cloud-to-the ground paradise. Even the crows and magpies are totally jacked off they can’t enjoy the wonders of flight.
An excellent opportunity to have a really good whinge.
We are now far from the outback with its unparalleled beauty, its silent isolation, its remarkable characters, its tiny cohesive communities, its endless landscapes and crisp clear skies.
Nor are we home!!
We are in a holding pattern of wishful anticipation and unquestionable boredom.
To overcome such depths of despair I indulged in a large mug of hot chocolate and a fresh coffee scroll prior to a serious shopping spree.
After trying David Jones I settled for Vinnies and emerged with a new vest at considerable cost.
Should have seen the look on the old dear running the place when with a dead-pan face, I asked if she would give me a trade-in on the red one!!
However it all ended happily and she has gained new stock due to my generosity, but regrettably was not interested in the bloody red jumper I had hoped to discard in favour of tee-shirts a month ago!!
The plumber still has high hopes of getting to Wagga some time tomorrow for the races on Thursday. The track is still rated heavy 10 which apparently makes it suitable for swimming at this stage!
And he got excited about this little prick perched up in his buggy; Paleface Adios, apparently a local hero to some.
He just cant wait to get home to Stem the Flow of leaking sewers and water pipes. And has even made a fuss about it in the local paper.

Perhaps we could leave here by train.
But it seems we have missed that also!!!
In the glow of the miserable evening we had a warming dinner at the local services club and I even had a couple of good scotches to help restore the blood flow.
Life’s too short to drink cheap scotch!!


Wednesday 27th July
We awoke in our one star habitat in the Terminus to the soft symphony of pissing rain again. The plumber is still ever hopeful however that our escape to Wagga for the race tomorrow is still definitely on!
After toast and cornflakes and coffee however, he was devastated by the news in the local paper that the course is still a heavy 10 and that the races have been irrevocably cancelled.
All those little pricks who sit on the horses’ backs have pulled the pin and gone home!
After the sobbing subsided a bit, I announced that I was 'over this place', and we were going home. Today!
However, after serious consideration it was agreed that that was also neither practical nor sensible, or indeed possible.
Another day of misery, punctuated only by a light lunch at the Ex-Services Club; dinner at the Terminus and a wishful dream that we could get home in the morning.

Thursday 28th July
Up at 7am and it seems there had been no rain overnight, only pea-soup fog, which slowly lifted as we checked out at last and called a taxi to the airport.
There were two croppies off doing their thing early, and also a couple of local flyers able to push aircraft out of their hangars at last!.
Re-fueled and took off, planning to call into Tocumwal to have our sausage sandwiches for lunch.
The cloud base was about two thousand with constant light rain showers moving across our planned track.
Just as YTOC appeared through the mist it started to rain seriously and we got in on runway 27and   into the warm clubrooms for our lunch.
It seemed we would be here for a while, hoping the scattered showers would abate.
Things didn’t improve much, or deteriorate further so we headed off between light whiffs of showers, at 1500-2000’.
Flooded paddocks everywhere.
Spotted Waranga Basin and so headed over there, and then were able to navigate by reference to known ground features. Couldn’t quite make out the top of Mt Alexander but Eppalock and Redesdale led the way into YKTN where is was reasonably clear for a ‘straight-in’ on 18!
Drained the oil and then----

                                     "Home sweet home"!!
    
                     Till next time!
























                                                                                         
        

















                                                                                         
        










                                                                                         
        

















                                                                                         
        










'One of '