ITALY 2003
Tues 4th
March 2003.
Ralph
drove us down to Tulla. Our domestic flight to Sydney was cancelled, and so we
were put on an earlier flight.
This still didn’t allow much time to transfer from domestic to
international by minibus, and to get thru customs. They on Qantas B747 for first leg to Singapore. Daylight most of the way across
Australia, but dark by the time we landed in Singapore. About an hour here, but not enough time
to buy a digital camera which I had hoped to get. Very impressed with the cleanliness of the airport, even the
dunnies which are traditionally disgusting in airports. A bit of a SARS scare
throughout Asia, many people wearing masks, but no evidence of any
problems. Then thru customs again
and boarded for Rome. A VERY long flight on this leg, plenty of food and a few
drinks, but hard to have more than a bit of a nod. Eventually landed at Rome's Fumicino airport at 5:30AM on…….
Wednesday 5th
March 2003!!!
An internal train thru the Fumicino airport
(Leonardo de Vinci), then got tickets for the longer train ride into Rome.
About a half hour thru outer suburbs, then the old city walls to Termini main
station in the centre of Rome.
Both really stuffed, but decided to try and stay standing and use up the
day to overcome jetlag a bit.
Looked round for central accommodation, and eventually booked into Farty
Towers till next Wednesday AM.
(350 Euro for seven nites).
Went shopping in Conad “supermarket”/drug store in basement of
Termini. Got a few basic groceries
and a litre bottle of white wine (E1.75)—and it was quite OK. Had free internet access at F/Towers,
so sent some messages home. We are staying in Room 2 in Bubbles, sister
“hotel” to F/T, and 2 blocks from it.
Started noticing Italian nuances including traffic—all driving like
buggery, motor scooters of every make by the thousands including Vespas of
course, also Aprillia, Lambretta, Honda and even BMW. Lifts in hotels (more accurately hostels) with ancient cage
lifts operated by cables which probably still work as well as they did a
hundred years ago. There are 8
“hotels” in the F/T block-one to a floor, including a Marco Polo—it seems any
old building with a few rooms constitutes a hotel (alberga). Italians downing short black sweet
coffees whilst standing at “bars”—business types on “smoko” mostly. And Morocans selling junk souveniers
outside most public places. A
serious lack of public toilets, hope Heather doesn’t need to go in a
hurry. A piss at the station cost
E.60!! (didn’t get a quote on a bog).
Everything seems about twice the price in Rome c/f Australia—ie just pretend a E is a $. I bought a disposable camera for our
adventures starting tomorrow. Many
people live in central Rome, mostly in rooms or small villas—all with similar
wooden shutters—which are I guess are quite practical. I had a couple of stubbies of Birra Peroni—a quite
acceptable local brew. Seems to be
a beautiful still early-spring time here—about 15 degrees C during the day—OK
for shorts and light jacket (me anyway).
Quite cold at night, however we have a water radiator in our room. Many shop owners in central Rome speak
reasonable English. In general, in
food places if you sit down you get ripped off, stay standing and prices are
reasonable.
Thursday 6th
March 2003
Our first tourist day. Had a croussant and coffee for breakfast, then started
walking to the Colloseum.. On the way, looking like total tourist dickheads, we
got ripped off comprehensively—the first and only time!! It was a beautiful warm sunny day, and
we were getting quite hot walking.
A near- new Citroen driven by a well-spoken “French businessman” pulled up alongside us asking
directions to the Colloseum. He was so grateful for our directions, and as we
told him we were from Australia, where his wife was; be proceeded to insist
that we accept a $2000 leather coat and jacket. Quite a generous gesture when all he needed was a little bit
of cash for petrol in return. We
eventually parted with E60, about $120, and he roared off ready to do the same
round the next corner. I dumped my
coat on the railing of a tree-surround at the next corner, Heather kept her
million dollar coat. We walked
thru the back streets of Rome, buildings gradually getting more ancient. Then we
turned a corner and there it was—the Colloseum and ancient Rome everywhere
beyond. A spectacular sight. With thousands milling round the
Colloseum and huge queues, we joined an English speaking Italian tour
guide. This lady got us thru the
entrance in no time and her commentary was well worth the extra fee. Before entering we bought a can of
beer, an orange drink and 2 “sandwiches” for E16 (ie $32)!! Round the outside perimeter there were
the inevitable Morocans, and realistic “gladiators” in full battle dress, and
horse and chariots taking people for rides. The chariots looked authentic
except for disc brakes!!
Our guide was excellent, we took many photos, and
got a great commentary. The entry
ticket also included admission to the nearby Palantino—Neros palace and
gardens. The site of the Colloseum was once his private lake. Extensive
gardens, with many plants starting to get into “spring” and some starting to
flower. Feet getting tired, but
still walked thru the Roman Forum.
Getting quite warm!! Walked back to F/Towers through interesting narrow
streets with cars and m/scooters buzzing everywhere. Bought some pizza (sold by weight), and panini, and some
wine from the arseholes opposite the Termini. Put camera in for processing and bought another. Nice chap
in camera shop.
Friday 7th
March 2003.
Today—The Vatican and St Peters. Cistine chapel and
Vatican Museum. Took and #40 bus
to Vatican (no charge—didn’t know now to get tickets)!! St Peters Basilica is enormous with
priceless artefacts and superb architecture. Took lift (5 euro ea )
to the base of the dome (Cupola), then down into basilica itself—which
L/planet says can hold
60,000. It IS vast! Numerous
statues and painted ceilings—inc many by Michelangelo. Then a long walk outside St Peters
square to entrance to museum. Numerous
statues and paintings, tombs, and passageways, ultimately to the Cistine
Chapel, which we both found rather disappointing. Exit was thru St Peters Sq again. Free bus back to F/T, got pizza, pasta, beer and wine for
tea. Sent some emails home, then early to bed!
Saturday 8th
March 2003.
Coffee and croussants for breakfast, also I has cold
pizza. Walked thru the narrow
ancient streets of Rome with our “map”, eventually coming to the tiny piazza of
Trevi (“three vias—streets’). Hundreds of visitors there, even tho
only mid-morning. We both threw
coins in and were quite overwhelmed by the place. Spoiled only by the inevitable Morrocans selling yo-yos and
other crap. We got a crusty roll
each filled with pork and great crackling, a third- bottle of wine each, and
sat on the edge of the Trevi
fountain and had a banquet!!
Next stop was the ancient Pantheon-‘floor level’ quite a bit below the
current ground level of the piazza it is in. No entry fee. Both busting for an
piss, the only option an ugly Maccas on opposite side of piazza—stunk, and had
to go down an ancient staircase and wait!!—esp Heather for the girls!!
Got another “free” bus back to central Rome, put
film in for developing. In evening
we found a very nice restaurant not far from F/Towers, and had a superb
meal. Brushetta, then spaggeti
carbonara with a superb bacon and white wine sauce. Then veal—thin slices with proscuito and a side dish of
potatoes, tomato and a creamy sauce.
I also had sweets—a chocolaty-cream thing with “lady fingers”. Also a bottle of house white wine. Total, E40.50, including a E5 tip—ie
less than $100, and a memorable meal.
Sunday 9th
March 2003.
Nice hot shower in am, feet and legs tired from long
walk yesterday. Coffee, bread and
Italian sausage for breakfast at F/T. Decided on a shorter walk today. Thru station and bus terminal then down
thru Piazza della Republica, and then down Via Vittoria Veneto—found the church
of St. Maria de Confessione.
Visited the crypt of the Cappuchine Friars.—crypt lined with skulls and
bones throughout, arranged in ornate designs. Quite bizarre. Entry by “donation”, so gave E2 each to
an ancient Friar at the counter!!
Then on to Villa Borghese—a large, pretty park area. Lots of families with kids, and a giant
hot air balloon nearby.
Heather bought a “hot dog” here for E5 ($10!!) Found our way to the Hertz office in an
underground carpark beside Villa Borghese. Checked that our booking for Wednesday was OK. Slowly walked back to F/T, along Via
Veneto which is a very expensive looking area, well laid out with plane trees
which would look great in the autumn or later spring. Heaps of very expensive shops, hotels and restaurants. Back to F/T early—looked up the web—F1
results—David Coultard won the Australian GP. Got email reply from Tammy. Had Pizza (me) and chicken/fungi
(Heather) on the balcony for tea, with wine/brandy. Will now go shopping at Conad under Termini.
Monday 10th
March 2003.
Picked up pics of Trevi etc in AM. Interesting
concave-brick ceiling in our room at “Bubbles”. Ancient cable and counterweight lifts in F/Towers—slightly
modernised inside. Emails from
Roger Sherack and Gleeso. Decided
on “walking tour” (P178 of L/Planet).
A great walk thru an historic area (read L/P). Lunch al fresco in a tiny back street in Portico Octavia
(P179 L/P). Pizza, Spag Carbonara,
Vino Bianco, Aqua minerali, cappachino, and crusty bread. Lunch E22—good value, and superb view
as per L/P. Bus back from
somewhere near Vatican?? Approx 3:30pm.
Bought beer and wine from near Termini. Had a game of chess with “Jim” (US??)—I won! Left film for processing. Made our own tea—foccacia, cheese,
fungi, sausages and tomato.
Another beautiful spring day.
Weather has been superb.
Minutea—no Skyscrapers in Rome, which is
excellent. Businessmen stand and
down their short thick sweet black coffee, ? on way to work. Often with a sweet
cake!!
Watched a bit of doom and gloom on TV—IRAQ!!-- little support for a further UN
resolution. Had a couple of Birra
Peroni, and to bed by 9:30pm.
Tuesday 11th
March 2003.
Made our breakfast at F/Towers, then walked to the
Museo Nationale, beside the central bus station. Very interesting, but we’re getting a bit statued out. Fascinated by the numerous male nude
statues with their dicks or nuts missing!!! Guess birds have souveniered them!! Then got a number 40 bus (E.77 each way
each). To bus stop at Piaszza
della Chiesa Nuova. Then walked
thru ancient narrow back streets until we found Osteria restaurant – at Via del
Governo Vecchio (Map9 L/P, and
p239)—“ this tiny, nameless Osteria, run by Antonio Bassetti has a name for
itself amongst locals---a step back in time when it was as cheap to eat out as
in. There’s no menu—just take your
pick from what the owner rattles off”—really no choice at all!! Lunch here was one of our best
meals—amongst the real locals, I guess mainly local workers.
We both had antipasta of proscuito, salami, thinly
sliced beef and nice soft cheese.
Heather then had pasta carbonara and I had pasta ametriciani (tomato and
cheese). Pasta was thick tubes,
with lots of grated parmesan on the table. No frills with a paper tablecloth. Meals E5 each, with a ½ litre of vino bianco decanted from
old gallon jars on the sideboard (E5).
Also lovely crusty bread rolls, olive oil and vinegar. Very salty bacon, but no doubt
traditional.
We then found our way to nearby Piazza Navona—the
biggest and most opulent in Rome.
Surrounded by historic and expensive buildings and apartments, crowded
with people in the sunshine, and containing 3 great fountains, the major one in
the centre—Bernini’s masterpiece—fountain of the four rivers (Fontana dei
Quattro Fiumi).
Many artists drawing/selling portraits and
paintings, and the inevitable Morrocans selling yo yos and junk. The local police would move them on,
only to have them reappear on the other side of a fountain. I had a caricature drawn here—E10, done
in about 5 minutes in pencil—very good artist, pity about the subject.
Then walked back to P della Chiesa Nuova and got the
#40 bus back termini. Had a birra
grande and took a couple of bottles back to F.Towers. Both buggered from walking, and it is pretty warm for very
early spring!! Have bus tickets
left to get to Villa Borghese at 9am.
Must collect key deposit from F/T first.
Sample budget today: Bed E50, Busses 3, lunch and vino 22, beer/wine 10, and
something for = max 100/day= $200/day. Will be more with car—already E25 for
car, 60 for bed, 75 for fuel and food/drinks—approx E100+ per day. Lets see!!
WEDNESDAY 12th
March 2003.
Up early, returned keys to F/Towers and got E10
deposit back. Got a bus to Villa
Borghese and then had a long walk with all our bags to Hertz office. Fixed up car rental and was given a
very basic map—in Italian!!, and
poor directions to get out of car park and towards Grand Annulare and
Autostrada. After a bit of a
think, we drove out and immediately got hoplesly lost. After a couple of laps of Villa
Borghese, found a “street” leading
to Grand Annulare, and eventually got onto it and then off towards Naples on
Autostrada. Much easier and faster
now we’re out of Rome!!
Drove thru rural areas with numerous olive groves,
standard vines and small vineyards—very colourful. At about 1pm turned off Autostrada to the left to find a small
village for lunch. Drove thru
Ceprano, and then up narrow roads to the ancient hillside village of Arce. From here, brilliant views of distant
snow-capped alps. So quiet, hardly
anyone aqbout excepy a couple of old guys sitting on a shopside step. Asked them about a Ristorante, but non
comprende. Then a friendly Italian
girl in a car let us follow her down to a ristorante above Ceprano—Ristorante
Leone. Late by now, too late for
their wood fired pizza. Heather
had carbonara and I had pasta de mare—seafood spagetti with little prawns with
crab-like claws. Lots of fresh
local bread. Didn’t buy vino as we
had bought 1.5l of bianco from a small shop in Ceprano, with s/steel tanks and
fermenters on the floor.E1.45/l, into our plastic bottle!!
About 3:30pm when we finished lunch so started
looking for somewhere to stay.
Drove back to top of hill above Arce into a tiny ancient Piazza where
the car could hardly fit and hard to turn around. No accom here, so started back down the hill. At Ceprano, enquired at a modern hotel—E75/double/nite inc b’fast;
but saw a sign to nearby Hotel Ristorante Antica, so found it and
enquired. It looked VERY impressive and expensive, but only
E60/nite including breakfast (Coffee and cake). Booked in without hesitation—a nice “old” guy on the desk,
and YES, they DO take Visa. Superb
gardens plus a huge Roman garden extension underway. We had a bottle of Tuborg beer and a bottle of vino bianco
(E8 the lot), and drank them sitting out the front, looking at the gardens. I also had a Mars Bar and Qantas
cookies for tea—not long since lunch!!
Our room was superb, and also had a separate
bathroom “ensuite”. A beautiful
view out onto “winter elms?” with a big bird nest whose owner landed on our
window sill and tapped on our
window with its beak. Really
liking this place, and had our best sleep yet! Drove 178Km for the day.
Thursday 13th
March 2003.
Up at 7am. Took some pics from our window—bird on
sill again. Had breakfast
downstairs in their very well furnished dining/lounge room. Cappuchino and cakes/jam tarts. We seemed to be about the only guests
here, except for 2 or 3 other couples.
And the price is so reasonable, and the place superb. Why is this so??—my theory
goes as follows: Its still (just)
the “off season”. Prices in Rome, eg F/Towers are comparatively very high as
most tourists, essp backpackers use the L/planet or similar book, and this place
is NOT in it. F/T IS, thus they
all turn up there, and prices there go up due demand. Thus the backpackers economic theory is self-defeating in
some ways. Their accom is 90
percent of budget so all they seem to eat is canned food, bread, fruit and
bottled water. Possibly healthy
but pretty fucking boring, esp (arguably) in the food/wine capital of the world.
We paid by Visa and headed off down to Napoli and
Pompeii. Drove thru some very
pretty country on secondary roads, many small vineyards, often only about 100
sq metres. Also many small olive
groves and lots of cultivated fruit trees, starting to get early spring
leaf/blossom.
Stopped for fuel—approx 22 litres, approx E22
($44)—pretty expensive but our little car (a Ford Ka) is very economical.
Eventually the secondary road led us into a “town” which became bigger
and very congested—Napoli!! We got
hoplessly lost. After a while,
seemed to get out of it and stopped besides a lake—Largo de Patria and asked
directions from a couple of old
fishermen—no fish yet—no Italian for us, no English from them. So we did a U bolt and headed the other way. It soon became obvious that Largo
Patria was on the way NORTH, and not south, so we were getting further away
from our destination.
Eventually, with a lot of luck and some of Heathers
map reading we got back on Autostrada and headed SOUTH towards Napoli, but
hoping to0 bypass it and get6 to Pompeii.
When you get on Autostrada, get a ticket and pay for it when you get off
again.—reasonable prices.
Napoli looked enormous and very boring, but we did
manage to bypass to the edge of it this time, and got to Pompeii about
2:30pm. C ar park here E7, 2
glasses of vino E8, and E10 each to enter old Pompeii.
Walker round ruins for about an hour—quite remarkable—thousands
of people here inc many large groups with guides-- we should have teamed up
with a group with an English speaking guide. Needs re-visiting someday!!
Took few pics inc with Vesuvius in background. Recalled Peter and Helen loosing all their gear here years
ago!!
L/P says 20,000 in Pompeii when Vesuvius erupted,
but onoly 2000 perished (10%)
(AD72.); previous earthquake AD32.
Back at carpark, asked best way back to Autostrada—a “breeze” in reality! At Pompeii we had travelled 245Km to
cover 100Km south!1 Decided we
would attempt to reach Ceprano tonite and if possible stay at the same place as
last nite.
Got off freeway, paid toll, and found our hotel
again—no worries, same room as last nite!! Bought some vino bianco from little bulk wine shop in main
street—E1.45 for 1.5 litre in our plastic bottle. I drove round a bit looking for an eating place—nearly got
lost again—but saw a superb vista of snow capped mountains with the sun shining
on them just on dusk. Found a
couple of potential eateries, then picked Heather up and drove round very narrow
back streets. Found a most
unlikely pasta/pizzeria place down a lane—“closed”—but they opened for us. Took in another 1.5 l vino –ok to
byo! Had house antipasta—green
bland olives, proscuito, sliced cured beef, grilled eggplant, red capsicum and
chillies. All steeped in olive
oil--superb.
Then Heather had veal scallopini in vino sauce and I
had pizza fantascica—a bit ordinary really –cheese, tomato, cheese and a bit of
some sort of sausage meat, and pretty thin crust.—different but still very
nice.
Back to hotel about 8:30pm and watched a bit of
local TV—got a bit of Tony Blair re Iraq with Italian subtitles on the “peace
channel”—quite an irony??. Then to
bed early, after a long day.
FRIDAY 14th
MARCH 2003.
Woke early, with the bird tapping on our window
again. Put a bit of bread on the sill for it. Watched a bit of TV in bed, then up, breakfast and
off!! Bought a 5 litre vino glass
flagon—filled—from our little wine shop in Ceprano. (Wish I’d bought the flagon
home). Found the town Piazza and
Heather phoned her mum from a bar—no trouble and only about E2.
Plan to drive north today—past Roma and start
visiting Tuscany. Wanted to see a bit of the south first, then savour Tuscany
and the north. Have decided big
cities are OUT except for “must sees” like Pisa and Venice—but preferably by
bus/train.
Drove towards Roma, onto the ring road towards
airport, then off and towards Citacecchia to the north. Stopped for petrol—always seem to get
immediate driveway service—this time AGIP brand fuel—senza plombo. Found our way to end of Autostrada at
Allumiere, and turned into the coastal road at Lido Tarquinia—along ther beach. Stopped for lunch at Ristorante
Snoopy.—shared antipasta of assorted fruiti de mare—mussels, pippies, olive oil and nice bread. Heather then had risotto crème scampi,
I had al la marina—squid, pippies—beautiful. Then we both had a cappachino—COLD!!—must remember to ask
for “caldo’ which is “hot” in Italian!!~
Walked along the beach—course sand, but beautiful
blue water, and dipped our fingers in the Mediteranean. Picked up a couple of pippie shells to
take home. After lunch, drove on thru
Montalto di Castro, and Orbetello.
Then Fontablanda, thru Grosetta (large city), then thru Braccagni to
Follonica on the coast, then Campiglia Maratima, San Vincenzo and eventually Cecina, where we turned
inland towards Volterra. About 20
km west of Volterra, we turned up a windy dirt road to an Agriturisimo to a
truly typical Italian
farmhouse where we booked in for the nite. No English/Italian, but lovely hosts,
and made us most welcome. Somehow
communicated with them, later the “boss” dropped in a bottle of Grappa which
was VERY powerful!! Only
E40/double for the nite. Think we could this place as a central base for a few
days to see a bit more of Tuscany. We are high up great views of
surrounding hills and vineyards and farms, and can just see the sea to the
west. Great just on dusk.
I drove about 7Km towards Volterra to a “takeaway”
place (very rural—like a big corner shop!!). Got spagetti, pizza and bruscetta, and I had a slug of Grand
Marnier while I was waiting!! Not
expensive, and they took Visa.
In our self-contained part of the farmhouse, we have
a dining room/kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, oven and hotplate, fridge
heaters)water and gas—its pretty cool at nites), and cooking vessels and utensils. Also a washing machine in the bathroom.
Our hosts have a (private) winery—vino rossa (AND
Grappa!!!), must have a look round in am.
We are now pretty much in central Tuscany and not far from Pisa, Siena,
San Gimignano and Firenze. Total
mileage today was 450km!!! Approx
costs for the day—Fuel E26, lunch 33, Autostrada 6, car 25, accom 40, tea 15 is
approx E110--$220 i.e. within our MAXM budget of $300!!
Saturday 15th
March 2003.
Cold overdcast moernign. Had a bit of a look round our “farm;--boss killed a poig and
was cutting it down. Explained to
Maria that we would like to stay tonite also,==OK!! We3 headed off for Volterra—got sidetracked up as very steep
hill adjacent to our farm, towards a “castle”. The “squire” turned up on
horseback and jestered us to piss off, but difficult to turn round. He eventually directed me to held turn
round and to back!!. Then drove
towards Volterra, stopped for breakfast of coffee and panni, then up a very
steep road to medieval Volterra. Parked on the footpathm which is loegal, and
visited an Alimenteri—bought pork, panni rolls, coffee and bum paper, and sweet
rice “fries” (cold). Walked into Volterra and found the park, and explored on
foot. Park Archealogica and
Piazza. Bought 200 cigs, postcards
and stamps and a 36exp disposo camera.
Then drove down the hill a bir, and stopped for our
feast dfor lunch. Pork and panni,
amd vino—overlooking the surrounding hilly countryside. The sun came out, but it was still
pretty windy at our lunch stop.
Then drove on to San Gimignano; an amazing little
ancient medieval village with a number of high “torras”. Walked rounf this superb village,
bought another camera, some postcards And
stamps. Bought a silver bracelet for Thelma from an artisan silversmith
working in his shop. Had a Cappachino each.
On way back to our farmhouse, got fuel E30, “home”
about 5pm. Yook some pics, paid
boss for tonite. Wrote cards to Ru7th, Don, John, Ralp[h and Jan and Cable.
Also card to TAB, posted to Aston.
Pizza and spagetti mare for tea, also coffee and vino. Cards also to Gleesos, and Peter and
Helen Elliot. Covered 126km today,
Sunday 16th
March 2003.
Fascinated by the shed structures on our
“farm”. Concrete bricks and
concrete roof bearers (home made??)
Off to Sienna and thru Chianti areas today. At Montecastelli Pisano got hopelessly lost up s very narrow
street in the ancient town—so narrow, as lady folded our car minors “in’ and we
just squeezed thru.
Further on, without any warning or signs, we came
upon an impromptu Italian Hill Climb.
Cars lined up including an early Ferrari, Faits, Fiat Arbath, and de
Tomasso!! Stopped for a few minutes,
then waved thru—and then passed a brand NEW Ferrari (going the other
way)!! Stopped in a
leafy side lane for a vino and piss stop on the way to Siena.
Many places were closed for Sunday, but we found a
lunch place at Ristorante Siena.
Heather had risotto mare and I had spagetti fungi and mare. We shared Antipasto Toscano. A fascinating ancient Ristorante. It had a beautiful old sideboard
covered in wine bottles. But a sign above said “Bristol Shipping Co”,
established 1892—with 3 clocks inlaid—New York, London and VICTORIA!!—and All
on the wrong time!! Also, a
fascinating brick roof—like “cloisters”, with strings of garlic hanging from
it.
Got lost again travelling thru Colle di Val d’Elsa,
and Volterra and Salina di Volterra on the way “home”. Stopped for spagetti, birra and
hotdog; and got some crousants for breakfast. Got back just on dusk, and paid “Gino” E40 for tonite, and
“explained’ that we would be leaving for Pisa and Venice in the morning.
MONDAY 17th
March 2003.
Left about 8:15am towards Pisa. Many roads are poorly signposted. Got fuel approx 10km before Pisa. An easy drive into Pisa, and found a
carpark in the street, near the university area. Then a long walk, across the Ponti Mezzi over the river
Arno, and found the Torra Pendullata!!
Could’nt climb the tower as only groups of approx 30 each time, and
would need to wait all day. Tower
recently re-opened after major works to straighten it a bit, by pouring lots of
concrete under base etc. Took pics
of heather trying to hold tower up, also of St Marks nearby.
Tried to withdraw money from the Banka de Roma—through
double security doors into a
“hatch”, then a long wait.
No luck, wouldn’t oblige!!.
Too hard!!~ Then went to a
nearby money exchange, and easily got cash using Visa—my card no good?? But
Heathers worked. Got E1032 for
$A2000!!!—I guess a steeper exchange rate that a bank!!
Worked our way out of Pisa and to the Marina de
Pisa, and stopped for lunch at 3pm!!, at il Trinchetto—almost overhanging the
Arno, near its opening to the sea—barges passing, an interesting place to stop
and sit down. Very hungry.!!
Got one litre Vino bianco ordinaire, E1.75/bottle. Place still quite busy, and the poor
young waitress dropped my plate of spagetti all over the floor!!. This was eventually replaced, and then
the poor girl a tray with several glasses, and a full bottle of olive oil and
vinegar—which all smashed on the floor!!
I hope she didn’t loose her job—the boss was very apologetic!!
After lunch, drove back onto Autostrada and bypasses
Firenze, towards Bologna, and pulled off Autostrada to small town of Barberino
de Mugello, and booked into Hotel Barberino—E77/bouble. Had a couple of birra/vinos at nearby
“bar’, then early to bed.
Travelled 218km for the day.
TUESDAY 18th
MARCH 2003.
Big breakfast in AM. The view from our room over a largo was great, and the grass
in the foreground had frost all over it.
We are getting north now, a bit cooler, esp at nite. “Self-serve’ breakfast downstairs in
lounge—ham, cheese, panni, orange juice, yoghurt and several crousants.
Drove
off towards Bologna, bypassing it, ansd towards Venice on Autostrada. Got caught in a traffic jam for 1 ½
hours, because of an accident ahead.
Got fuel (E27), and pulled off Autostrada into the small town of Dollo
about 2pm. Very narrow busy
streets, but only a bus ride south of Venice, so booked into the Albergo al
Campagna for tonite and tomorrow nite.
Parked car in undercover park at rear of Albergo. Accom here E60/nite (no breakfast), but
they take Visa, and the proprietor couple speak reasonable English, especially
the wife.
Found a photo shop and put 2 films in to
develop. Shop man very helpful.
(pics ready approx 10am Thurs).
Walked round old area of Dollo, and had “tea” at Al Cristo in
Dollo—opposite our albergo, beside the canal. I had pizza and Heather had spagetti carbonara. Tomorrow we will get bus to Venice
(about 9km), spend the day there, and back here for the nite again. Distance today—309km.
WEDNESDAY 19th
MARCH 2003.
The Dollo town clock in its very old tower started
cmiming at 7am and went on and on!!—many more than seven ‘strikes’.
We have a view of the canal from out window and
there is confetti everywhere (common occurance in Itald—marriage must be the go
in March)
We caught the bus to Venice, ony about 10Km and it
took abot 45 minutes, through a heavy industrial area then thru large port area
then to fascinating Venice. With streets and canals going in all directions we
promptly got hoplesly lost. Thru the open air fish matket, into a chirch with
beautiful ainted cielings. We had lunch at Tratorria Ponte outside in the sun
beside a narrow vcanal and a small foot bridge. Heather had ‘steak and
potatoes’ ad I had spagetti a la Bolognese with parmesan E27 including a litre
of vino bianco de cassa, and they took visa. Perhpsits carnivale time as
numerous shops in Venice selling masks, but they probably do all yaer round.
We travelled along the Grand Canal in a water taxi (E3.10 each) past St Marks
and many grand cana buildings., with police and ambulance boats and lots of
water traffic. Many police boats ad Garmin GPS. Also large barges collection
construction rubbish. Bought icecreams from an usie boke at a kiosk in Venice—I
immediately dropped mine, and he gaceve me a ‘refll’. Wetook the bus back to
our hel at Dollo nd collected a couple of developed films. Watched TV in our room in the evening
and were disgusted to see Bush
buikd up for war in IraQ!!Had a few beers, and a pork roll with that
great crispy, fatty tusvan pork.! Superb!
Thursday 20th March 2003
Woke about 4am in our room. And watched in horror as
Bush declared war on Iraq. St up and watched the ‘live’ coverage in Italian.
Has he bombed agdad ? We left Dolo about 9am heading avross the northern area
of Italy towards Cinque Terra.
Drove on the autstrada trough flat boring cutry side trough Padova,
Vicenza, ad had lunch in the region of Buon Alberg0—a fat, open plain area,
with muchindustrial activity, at San Giovani Lopatono. I had entre of
‘butterfly pasts’ with pompadora and carno; then we both had “STINKY”!!-a large
bowl of large chunks of pork knuckle; much like lamb shanks, in a ull flavoured
gravy/sauce. The area had no vines, was flat and stunk of chook shit. The
stinky was superb at 1o euros each all up for lunch, there was no choice, just
what was going. Great meal, but glad I ddn.t see the kitchen1.
After lunch we drove on thru Cremona, Piancenza,
Fidenza, Parma, thrn over the Alps thru Fornosa, Cassio, Montalgano. 40Mk over
the alps from Noceta we stopped at a very high pass and filled our 5 l vino jar at en enoteca—whene I
bumped my head on the low beamed entrance—after the owner had warned me too!!.
There were specataciular voews from here with snow on the highest peaks, very
narrow roads but almost n traffic c/f the autostrada. Arrived at Pontremoli, a
superb mediieval town ad booked into a boring pub Napoleon, whch is too mdern
and brnigfor the area, AND too dear. Hve coveed 38km for the day. On TV, bus
HAS declared war on Iraq—FUCK HIM!1
Had tea at the pun==fairly ordinary Spagetti Carbonara.
Friday 21st
March 2003
Up early ad had a pretty average breakfast at the
Napoleon then left Pontremoli for La Spezua and the Chinque Terra. A lot more
mountain driving, which I quite enjoy.Still pretty hazt, so didn’t get a good look at the Mediteranean.
Got to la Spezia abut 10am. This is a large naval base town. Ventully got
to casal resort on Portoveno.
Spoke to an Ausia coiple from Melbouen and got vgue directions to chinque
terra. Two postcard-peefact elderly en with typical; caps on. Smoking ans
talking beside a fishing boat—went
to tke a pic f them, and they mover d apart thinking I was tking a pic f
Heather and they didn’t want to get in the way!!! Pity! Drove back trying to
find C.T, up wrong road again, eventually got good directions from a local.Thru
winding mountain roads, very narrow and difficult to pass. Got to Corniglia,
pareked inside the ‘town’ which is technically illegal, and walked and had
great lunch utside at Cecio restrurant. Met same ausie cuple again. We had
rissoto alla mare for lunch and a loc bttle whte wine.Booked to stay at Cecio
60 euro for the nite wth a room wish ‘vista de la mare’.
Went fors srole thru this ancient hamleyt with
terrafed vineyards literally hanfing from the hillside, narrow streets and the
single track ‘areno’, visible from our room, to trasport man and grape up and
down the seep hillside. W had a nice clean upstairs room with bathroom and a
superb view. Bells chime on the hour all over Italy, often ringing on and on!1
We wet out to dinner in the tiny ancient village, in
a restrurant downstairs ff a narrow street. Then took pivs of sunset over the
Mediteranian. Then left our jar of vino outside to ‘chill’ and went tp bed.
108Km tday.
Saturday 22nd
March 2003
Downstairs at Cecio ad had a coffee settled up, and
headed off from Corniglia.Beautiful views of the med, but still very hazy. And
very narrow windy rods. Several times had to top and back-up for vehicles in
opposite direction to pass. 9:36 AMhru/past ther C>T>
villages, even steeper terracesand more monorails. Then into la Speia where we got hoplessly lost again!!
Eventually found our selves on a hilly rd to Genoa? After aother dead-end side
road, back into laSpezia and found the Autostrada. Stayed on Astostrada and
only pulled off to get rolls and poek then on past Firenze, hoping to stop and
stay besides Castiglione d Lago. Hru several tunnels, several anciant tiny
villages visible from a/strada on the mountain ridge tour east.
Left the a/strada at montelione d Orvieto to find
somewhere to stay. Climbed uphill for some 12Km and came to Montelione
d/Orvieto—a brilliant ancient hilltop village just on dusk—will explore in the
morning. Booked into a private ‘camera’ that a lady in the bar took us to-40
Euro—very reasonable. Heather not feeling too good. I drove back downhill to a
Ristorante and had a superb meal. Then got ‘takeawat for Heather.I had
brushetta; beautiful vegetabke sup with chick peas, beans etc over toast. Then
veal and large fresh asparagus spears. Also ig ?wedding party going on at ristorante besde our camera.
Bed about 10pm, a fairly cold nite. 353 Km for the day.
Sunday 23rd
March 2003
Had av strole thru ancient Montelione d’Orvieto, nothing open in AM. But then
its Sunday in Italy after all! Drove for 40km towards Perugia and got hopelessly
lost again. Had coffee and croisants at a little village and got directions to
Assisi, and eventually arrived there some 75Km later. Arked in the public car
park and explored this ancient walled town which unfortunately is too
commercialised; I guess we wereen’t helping! After panni and porchetta for lunch, eaten ssitting on the
high walled roadway with a superb view, we looked thru the church which makes
Assisi famous. This was the original home of St Francis of Assissi.
Eedless to
say, on the way back to Monteleone we got lost agan; the Italian road
sigs are so confusing. We found the Autostrada and after40km keft it aat
Orvieto and stopped at at group of three hotels on the msin rad, opposite a
railwayline which runs parralel to the road.
We booked into Gialletti Hotel at 67.50 euro
including breakfast. Noce modern rooms, Tv and bathroom. We bith had a shower
and I washed by complete wardrobe—jocks, socks, shorts and a tee-shirt—which
will dry out on the balcony overnite. Gnuine recycling. I went for a walk into
the modern part f town and toped up our wine jug. Then we hd diner at anthr pub
a couple of door way—rushette with some sort of lack stuff on it ( surely this
is,t trffle?? It tastes like shit.) Then a nice pagetti carbonara anf a couple
of glsses of ino bianco de la casa.
Monday 24th
March 2003
A good breakfast at the hotel, and we decded to stay
here another nite. T 9.30, off to explore the old village of Orvieto,. Parked
inside the old town and walked thr it all day—a superb medieval village oozing
with istory, history and crowds of people. Another beautiful warm spring day,
tee-shirt and shorts again! Walked one Lm up Corso Cavour to the supern
cathedral.
Had
lunch at a fairly expesve place in Corso Cavour; and here we DID have our first
taste of REA truffles!!—Veal wwith an equisite truffe saucewih herbs and a hing
of cilli. I aso had the zuppa which looked, tasted and infact WAS real
ministroe. We spent about n hour in an ‘internet café’ in Corsa Cavour, cleared
email and send messages to Trazel, Cable, Ralh. After lunch heather wlked back
to the car and had read, ad I
walked back to the cathedral area and had a good look thu it, and listened to
the englidh desctption of the building and its history. At 4pm I went on a tour
of the Etruscan underground city, with an Iaian guide whose running commentary
was excellent and being in Ialian I understood about one word of it, pls a few
hand gestures. A fascinating place however, carved ut of the ash-like volcanic
soft rock/soil.
Rove back to our hotel and I bought a litre of vno
bianca, an goo stuff at that, for .98 euro/litre. (in plstic bottle—real class!!) Heather bought an American
newspaper and we caught up wih the grim news of Iraq. We had dner at the same
hel—again had brushetta wth the black stuff on it—Brusetta Tarfuta??—no wonder
dogs prefer Pal—I’ll hae to reassess my thoughts about trffles.!!
Tuesday 25th
March 2003
Another beautiful, sill sunny spring day; expecting
a top of 18 degreees in Roma! And our car is due back there today at 5 pm. Will
head ff earl to get it back before the rush hou. A nice brekfast at the pub,
but why do they always stuff jam inside the croussants??
Headed back towards Roma, with several stops for
refreshments and relief!. Also refuelled the car about15km from Roma. Reached
the Graand Anulara and f course got lost again, not far from Vill Borghese.
Eventully fund our way to the Hertz place and clocked in at 12:44pm. The car
was checed, ad no extras to pay.
We ad covered a total of 3013km riving round Italy.
We walked back into central Rome with our bags-a long walk and buggered when we
got there. Booked into Faulty
Towers ‘Bubbles” roomagain—now 60 eur a nite—the tourit season started on 14th
March!!while we wee away! Pizza (me) and chicken dsh (Hather) for tea, and we
were in bed early.
Wednesday 26th
March 2003
Bought bread and sliced ham from Conad supermarket
nder Termini station, and had bfast at f/towers. Pretty buggered from driving,
so we spend the day resting and watching TV all day—mostl abou Iraq. Met a couple of English seaking touris
and had a few drinks with them, then Heather and I had dinner at a restrurant
on our way back to ‘bubbles’.
Thursday 27th
March 2003
Bfast at f/towers-croussants from Cond,
toast,ceese,tomo and coffee. Bought a day ticket 3.10 euro each for the buses
ad metro. Visited the forum agin, and followed an English speaking guide. Bus
back to Termini, and we had a great lunch at Ristorante Leoni Abruzzo, not far
from f/towers. Then wwnet by bus to see the Spanish Steps.A ong walk from the
bus stop. Thousands of people at the S/Steps—looks like sme sort of
demonstration—probably against Iraq war-‘Pace” flags everywhere. And a police
chopper circling the area earlier. We had ‘scraps’ for tea back at f/towers.,
amd to bet by 10:30 after couple
of birra.
Friday 28th
March 2003
Another warm sill,sunny sring day—we sure have had
superb weather. Made bfast at f/towers—toast,sasage tomao and croussantsand
coffee. Heather bought a novel and rested andread at f/towers, and I went for
another look round the Roman Forum. This time I got an English brochue ad spend
quite a while exploring and identifying important items/places. Got a train
back from the metro station directly opposite the Colluseum . Yarned with a couple of Aussie nblokes
and a bush-hating Yank in the evening. A nice lunch at a nearby side-walk café
(al dento!!), and pizza for tea.
Saturday 29th
March 2003
Our last full day in Roma and Italy! Decided to
visit the Catacombs on t Appian Way.
(appia antica) Got a couple of 3.10 euro dayticksts. At the ametro
entrance, ot stopped by a ‘transport inspector—apparently we hadn’t validated
tockets. He was a real shit—wanted 51.10 euro EACH on the spot and wanted to
see out passports. Heathers tears helped, and the ‘fine’ was reduced to just
51.10 euro!!—the bastard—I should have got a receipt, guess he ha
s vino money for the week now!! Ride on Metro, then
changed to bus t via appia. An excellent elglish speajng Italian gude at
Catacombs for 5 euro each—facinating place with long winding underground
tunnels and numerous burial places. Ther ancient Roman ruins as we walked
along bit of the apian way. Back
at f/twers, I did my laundry again, the whole outfit! Bira, pizza dn canalni
for tea, acked up a bit, and to bed by 10;30PM.
Sunday 30th March 2003Finished packing,
had coffee take-away; and settled up for acomodation and got our key deposit
back. Sugested they change name from Bubbles t Sybils!! Daylight savings starts
today I Italy, so now we re an
hour ‘behind’. Got on the train t termini for Fumcino d arried at airport about
10:30am. Slow getting checked in and thru customs. Eventlly left rome about
2:30pm.
A very long bring flight to Singapore (11 ½ hours0; and there many locals wer wearing
masks—still a SARS scre? Here we
bought the digital camera that we would have love to had I Italy!!—A$522. Anther long flight from Singapore t
Sydney—about 7 hours an d e rrived Sydney 6:30ppm, not long fter dark,and it
now is-----
Monday 31st
March 2003
A long wait to get on the flight to Melbourne. Had
to transfer to the domestic terminal hich is w rel hassle I Sydney. Left Sydney 8:30pm on a new A320 airbus
for Melbournw. Arroved Melb about 10pm. Eventually found Ralph who took us
home; arrived home 2:30AM, and it was now 1st April!!
