****AROUND OZ IN theUGlyDuckling JUNE-JULY 2017****




We hope to get away on Thursday 8th June, with the first overnight stop at Menindee, east of Broken Hill.
The proposed trip is shown on the iPad map above, but will be subject to minor changes along the way. The route as planned, flying counter-clockwise from Kyneton is: Wentworth, Menindee, White Cliffs, Hungerford, Thargominda, Windorah, Albibah Station, Stonehenge, Longreach, Ilfracombe, Winton, Hughenden, Undara, Georgetown, Julia Creek, Mount Isa, Barkly Station, Tennant Creek, Hooker Creek, Halls CreekDerby, Cape Leveque, Broome, Sandfire Road House, Port HedlandMarble Bar, Newman, Meekatharra, Leonora, Kalgoorlie, Caiguna, Forrest, Nullarbor, Ceduna, Wudinna, Port Pirie, Renmark, Hopetoun, Kyneton.
Avgas is available at places highlighted in blue, but not those in red.
Planning issues for this trip have centered around fuel availability and a desire to find new places to visit.
Of the thirty-eight listed above, twenty-nine have been visited at least once, including seventeen on two or more occasions. Eight will be totally new experiences, and many from years ago will be old gems revisited.
No ocean crossing or island hopping is planned on this occasion, and hence ‘house arrest’ is (hopefully) unlikely!
The red centre has been visited many times, and the recent ‘dancing in the sand conference’ at the rock has done little for its attraction to the writer.
Indicates flow, used, remaining, endurance at flow rate, fuel required to next waypoint, and reserve.

With a new prop fitted to theUGlyDuckling (C172M VH-UGD) replacing the now time-expired one I have flown behind for thirty years, plus ‘new’ technology in the form of a JPI FS450 fuel scan computer, theblacksheep is again, all set to go.
I believe ‘time-expired’ is a relative term amongst pilots; it’s all in the mind.

And so at the tender age of seventy-five and with the ‘plumber’ again in the FO’s seat, we are off on another of life’s adventures.
Thurs 8th June
After an early frost at Faraday it was down to YKTN to pre-fight theUGlyDuckling, load up and take off on 36 in nil wind and sunshine. And the Wx improved all day. On the leg to Wentworth we managed to average 115kts at 5,500, with the heater on all the way.
Initially flew over Faraday, which is right on track. The FS 450 fuel monitor performed faultlessly—indicating 40lph in climb, and leaned at 5,500 it came back to 28-29lph.
A bit of traffic into Mildura on the shared CTAF with YWTO, and we landed on 17 and taxied for fuel. George, the plumbers ‘ole mate met us with a thermos of coffee and biscuits.
Then off to Menindee in superb sunshine, again getting 115kts, and even 125 for quite a while. The lakes are pretty full at present, fed by the Darling of course. The runway is just on the south edge of lake Menindee and the Indian Pacific line is beside it. On short final, the long goods/passenger train came through and we flew over it at about 50 feet just before the threshold.
A great photo opportunity, but of course neither of us had a camera ready!!
Daryl from the motel came out and drove us into town and the place has changed a lot since I lived/worked at Broken Hill and went to Menindee to sail and swim on weekends, fifty years ago!!
Doesn’t time fly!
Our Menindee Motel
Rissoles and mash at the pub opposite for tea, as only they do in the bush! Brilliant. This Pub was where Burke and Wills set up their base camp before the ill-fated journey north, and they stayed in the pub for eleven weeks. The towns’ main claim to fame I guess.
An uneventful first day, generally in known territory, and superb sunshine. But I think another frost tonight. Might need a fizzy drink to ward off the cold.
Frid 9th June
Somewhat new territory today, only an hours flight to White Cliffs where lots of people live underground.
Easier to dig a hole than built a house I guess; perhaps something to do with opal mining!!
A great flight to White Cliffs, even got 135 kts ground speed for a few moments, and 125 most of the way. Pretty, but constant scenery on this leg, we are now getting into the real outback.
Paul from the motel came out and refuelled us at White Cliffs, and took us back to town.
Great country out here

Later on I got a ride out the strip again with Greg, to collect a few things. Greg is a local bachelor who lives in a ‘five-roomed dugout’ that cost him $65K. They are leased for five years at a time, the lease can be renewed or the ‘dugout’ sold.
He does a few jobs round town and fossicks for a bit of opal which the taxman is denied an interest in.
Tied down White Cliffs


The big van behind the sign is loaded with dead 'roos for human consumption--Hungry??
We are staying above ground at the local motel attached to the pub. The motel 'rooms' are from the Sydney Olympic Village. Comfortable, but would hardly be conducive to breaking world records!


The nominal population of White Cliffs is 103, debatable at any time; but it grows exponentially yet unofficially, in the winter months, when digging for precious stones is more comfortable than in the daily 45+ heat!!
Sat 10th June
White Cliffs came alive last night. The arrangement between the pub and café/general store opposite is that on a Saturday the café does meals and the pub sells beer. I think they re possibly owned by the same bloke who lives in Broken Hill, but the system works well.
At least forty for sit down tea at the café at 6pm. Many had their own wine from the pub. Also take-away, which was a much quicker option and the burger with the lot for fourteen bucks was brilliant.
It’s a long walk to the nearest Maccas.
Then the diners all resorted to the pub which continued well into the night. It was much warmer back in our dongas with the heater on, but it took a little while for the plumber to return to camp.
Our tariff of a hundred bucks included a decent breakfast I the dining room: cereals, orange juice, toast and honey and coffer/tea.

This morning the plumber did a Cooks tour of the place on foot, and then Paul drove us out to the airstrip. The mail plane had been in a bit earlier and had departed.
Off to Hungerford, and as we lifted off and circled the opal fields there was fluffy cloud at 500’AGL, which cleared a few miles out and we were able to maintain 4,500 in superb sunshine all the way.
Circled the pub at Hungerford a couple of times,  and landed on the long (al la RFDS of course) runway.
By the time we had tied down with our chattels out, Graeme the publican was out to collect us for the ride along the dingo fence into town.
And so here we are in room One—fabulous warm and clean.
With corrugated walls and ceilings, and floors sloping well Southwards! And as mentioned by the proprietor, ‘you’ll need a cut lunch if you have to go to the bog during the night. But its Ok to have a piss just outside the room in the moonlight’
Small Boab tree out front
How civilised!


No phone reception here, so we fired up Chris’s Sat Phone for the first time.
A great steak sandwich each for lunch out in the sunshine.
After all we are almost 50 metres inside QLD now, and so may get a bit of pocket money bending bananas.
Sun 11th June
Bus running late i think!
Gate to airstrip, QLD side
No takers yet!
The extensive menu last night was either T-bone or chicken parma.  The food was hot but the weather freezing, and the woof fire in the dining area didn’t really do much with all the doors open. A couple of stray stronads called in for tea also, and of course a couple of the locals. Mac who we met last year is now ninety and in a nursing home in Cunamulla, much o his disgust. Back here he still has his 1925 T-Model Ford which he bought new. Marshy however, well in his eighties was here for a chat, and his daily couple of beers. We also met Aldren, a bit of a pain in the ass  to the rest of the town. He’s only eighty one, the youngest non-pub resident.
The population these days is TEN, including the cop, and the three staff at the pub.
And they all love it our here, nothing life this red soil country!
Graeme the publican and his ‘partner’ Carol love the place, and they come from up near the gold coast. No traffic lights, no cops to worry about, no creditors to speak of, no phones to answer and no TV to get excited about all the doom and gloom of the word.
Who is Donald Trump, did he Nuke North Korea, who won the British election—what election??  Who cares!!
It rained heavily most of the night, including thunder and lighting. he local are happy, but we had to sit it out till 3pm until it was clear enough to take off for Thargominda.
And so we are now in the Bullo River Pub at Thargo with a warm heater on in the room and tea in the oven.
Mon 12th June (Day 5)
Last night the meals were great at the pub. The plumber opted for MUTTON chops—a huge plate of FOUR with veg and piled with gravy. And I had kids serve of sausages and chips—they must grow big kids out here.
Dry lake
And after a great nights sleep, Shirley the proprietor made us toast and coffee, plus weekbix. The water stinks of sulphur out here—in the shower, and the bog; and it tastes terrible from the taps.
This is from the  Great Artesion Basin which extends across a great area of outback Australia. The water won’t lather and we needed to buy bottles to drink during the night.
Fortunately the beer is imported.
Windorah Road Train
R22 Mustering
Hot water from the ground
The 'Basin"
Load of beef
Wet lake
Thargominda to Windorah
We visited the Tourist Info Centre and I thanked the people who retrieved my ‘mobility aid’ and posted it back last year. For security purposes I left it locked in theGlyDuckling this time.
Our flight today was only 166nm in superb sunshine, and cruising at 5000’ we got 125kts most of the way. We have been getting great tail winds so far.
The Rex staff were there waiting for an arrival and we got a ride into town with the girlie from the pub.
It is ALMOST shorts wx here, and will be before long. But the nights are bloody cold and we have the aircon heat on all night.
Tues 13th June (Day 6)
Today we planned a short hop to a private strip on a station called Albilbah, with accommodation in an historic homestead on the property—or at least the AOPA directory on Oz Runways said so. After calling the number several time on skype without success, a couple of old timers at Windorah told us the place had changed hands years ago, and the airstrip probably doesn’t exist these days, nor is there accommodation now.
I will be letting Oz Runways and AOPA know; many of AOPA details are WELL out of date. Possibly written by people who have never been bush.
They suggested Yaraka, a tiny hamlet near the Barcoo river with a population of twenty one and a long RFDS sealed runway and a pub.
Just our sort of spot, still well into Matilda Country, part of  the huge channel country area.
And so here we are in Yaraka.
Barcoo
A great spot, even the flies and mozies like it, and our hosts Chris and Gerry ate great.
Circled the pub and Chris came out to collect us.

At 5:30pm the daily drive to the peak of Mount Slowcombe 2241’, to view the sunset, leaves the pub in a mini-bus. There were ten of us, all camping in vans except for us—the only house guests in the Presidental Suite!
Great sunset
Yaraka Pub
The view from up there was magnificent as the sun-set over sparse endless pastoral plains.
Gerry and Chris behind bar

Then all back to the pub, even all the campers had dinner here. In got a bit chilly later and so we all sat round a fire of mulga and gidyea wood and told endless lies.
What a great place. 
Feet up at last!!
The Presidential suite is all corrugated iron lined, no water or heating and the bog half a mile further east.
All part of the real country.
Flew over (old) Wellshot Homestead on way to Yaraka, 450,000 acreas on several sites
 Breakfast included in the tarrif which we have no idea of yet, but don’t imagine it would be more than the Hilton.
WED 14TH June (Day 7)
Will fly to Stonehenge today as per our plan, but after a good look at all the attractions of Yaraka!! 
Sylvia, one of the campers here with her hubby, is writing me out her famous outback recipe for camp-oven damper—none of that black-fella stuff!!
Basically 3 cups SR Flour, Can of beer, teaspoon backing powder (Bicarb Soda), dessertspoon sugar, dash olive oil, sit for 2 hours in warm place (eg Yakara) cook in camp over, 45 mins+.  Can add chillies, onions, bacon, cheese, or fruit, even make cherry ripe damper with cherries and choc chips.
After saying farewell to our host Chris and Gerry, we got a ride out to the strip and loaded up for the short flight to Stonehenge, which many aviators don’t believe exists in Australia.
A 1350 meter sealed strip used each second week by the RFDS. Only got 85Kts on this leg, and again it was a cross wind landing—one strip only.

We are camping in dongas about a two can walk from the pub. They look comfortable and have heaters, although the plumber is now in shorts and I will be in the morning.
Beats the Pommie one!! Did the Druids build this???
The Real Stonehenge



S-t-r-e-t-c-h the image to find Ilfacombe, Stonehenge, Yaraka etc.

Thurs 15th June (Day 8)
Slept reasonably in our dongas after murdering a few million mozies and kicking off the donnas-light sheets only.


Uniform at last!!
Approach YLRE rway between prop blades.

Have just had toast and tea this morning as sustenance for the flight to Longreach for fuel, and then a very short hop to Ilfracombe—what surprises will that tiny gem hold!
Only a half hour flight to Longreach. It is the largest inland QLD town, but apart from the Qantas museum and Stockmans Hall of fame which have taken my church money several times before, it doesn’t have much to offer adventurers.
Landed on the almost 3km runway and taxied for fuel, none of my cards worked, so resorted to one marked VH-CND—as pre-arranged with the owner (NJ)!!
Then off to Ilfracombe, and landed on their long gravel strip a couple of miles out of town. Pretty narrow and apparently we were the first aircraft to use it in over 12 months.
All roads open
In no time Lowana from the pub was out to pick us up, and took us for a Cooks tour of the vast hamlet of about ninety residents.
Part of the 'Machinery Mile'
Wellshot Pub

Lots of locals own race horses here—Oh dear!!—I think the plumber heard that!
And it transpires that there is a major race meeting in Longreach on Saturday!!, and it’s only Thursday today!.
I foresee a major compromise to be discussed and arbitrated upon.

Frid 16th June (Day 9)
The anticipated discussion did take place in a robust yet civilised manner, with myself in the chair and all matters raised through, and with respect to the chair.
The chairman pointed out that          provided all other imposed conditions were met, the plumber would be permitted to attend, at his peril, the forthcoming ‘dust club’ meeting tomorrow. (There being no ‘turf’ in Longreach, or for many furlongs around).
The conditions are many and include:
The pilot needs two full days of rest before proceeding further North.
Winton will be deleted from the previous plan, and the flight will now proceed from the local paddock here at Ilfracombe direct to Hughenden on Sunday, thus avoiding an overnight stop at Winton. (We have both been there, done that!)
The plumber will make his own way to and from said bookies festival at Longreach.
There shall be no mention made of inevitable losses incurred at the dust bowl or boasting of unsubstantiated gains.
No further race meetings elsewhere along our proposed route will be entertained or considered as possibilities for interruption to matters of flight.
There being no further business, the meeting was closed, and no supplementary agenda items accepted.
And so for the rest of today the plumber has been studying documents he calls ‘form guides’, which are apparenly written jointly and agreed upon prospectively by jockeys, owners, bookies, drug dealers and the like.
He has also sweet-talked the owner lady into the loan of the pub ‘ute for his adventure in return for some formal plumbing assistance to repair the ageing lines in the bar.
To my advantage, the use of the ‘ute also allowed us to drive out to theUGlyDuckling to collect some personal essentials including the hospital urinal; the sink in our room being uncomfortably high!
Looks a bit lonely in this paddock!!
I should think so!!

The rest of the day has been spent productively. Resting in my case, and later, soaking in the nearby natural hot spar in town, with the water a comfortable thirty- eight degrees.
Brilliant, and doubles as a clothes washing machine and personal hygiene enhancer.
Wellshot pub 
Thermal pool
Having mobile phone coverage here is a huge advantage, and saves resorting to Chris’s satellite phone which we will need somewhere down the track again.
Hence I was able to call a number of outback places along our route to check on Avgas, beds, transport from airstrips and the like.
And of course, also able to call my darling Heather back home.
In the evening we called the blokes at the ‘flight deck’ Friday gathering in my shed, and had a speaker-phone conversation. They had a roaring fire going, and we are of course in shorts and t-shirts with the aircon on!
Tonight the place is booked out here, apparently the ‘local’ football match is at Ilfracrombe. Those blokes really hate a beer and I think their bedtime will be after ours.
Nearby Stations--bit bigger than a 1/4 acre block!!

Sat 17th June (Day 10)
A great breakfast put on for the footballers, and we got our share also.  Bumnuts, bacon, baked beans, mushrooms, omlettes; the lot.
A few of the 'Mile of Machinery
Breakfast

And so for today it is now “Good luck for him”, and “Good Night from me”.

Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z Z.........


I may however surface later in the day to report on any local activity, hopefully before the football lot return and start playing havoc.


…………Much later, after a good rest in out room…….
And yes, the plumber returned before dusk, the pub ‘ute intact, but there was no mention of financial matters or the intactness of the wallet.
The general demeanour was somewhat morose but again it would have been a hot and dusty day at the track.
Perhaps as happens occasionally, those conniving little pricks on horse back may have consulted with their fellows and come to some devious arrangement.
But that is no business of mine.
Look at the little prick with the whip out!!


Fashions in the dust?
I strolled around the vegie patch behind the pub and noted their great patch of tomatoes, melons, pumpkins, green beans, spinach, and a variety of fruiting citrus trees—all things that grow all year up here.
This place is the best hotel we’ve stayed at yet, and probably will remain so.
The hosts Tracy and Paul and their staff are great, the food is brilliant and reasonably priced, and the Chef (“Cheffrey”) is a master at everything, especially pies!! –mushroom, ‘Ned Kelly”, bacon and onion, curry-the lot!
And he cooks about eighty full meals each evening—none of that ready prepared stuff!
The footballers returned but were a bit quieter, perhaps their type of losses hurt also.
We have arranged for an early morning pick-up and transport out to the airstrip, to get in the air to Hughenden before the heat.

Sunday 18th June (Day 11)
Paul picked us up at 8am as promised and drove us out to the airport.
After loading up and pre-flighting, we took off right on 9am, and made a slow climb to between 7,500 and 8000.
Up there the air was cool and smooth, and we got 110-115kts for the 166nm run to Hughenden.
The view of the outback from up here is something to behold, it needs to be seen from the air in all its stark beauty.
2,400RPM,27lph straight and level
Oh for a Hasselblad
Tied down Hughenden

Landed on the very long rwy 04, again with a bit of a gentle cross-wind
Called the re-fueler and there is a $45 call out fee today (the Sabbath I guess) but NO fee in the morning so we’ve arranged to meet him at the strip at 8am—and then off to Undara.
The pub owner collected us and we’re at the Royal Hotel, Motel.
The plumber has gone for a photographic mission (as he should) to take, amongst other things, one of the Allen and Terry Caravan Park!!
And to correct the spelling of course.
Monday 19th June (Day 12)
Got a ride out to the airport at 8 am with Linda, who has been a local for years. She agrees that after some six years of drought, Hughenden is somewhat in decline. 
People are leaving stations, the banks don’t help much, lack of water and hence feed has severely affected stock prices. Freight services have diminished.
The main hope is for a proposed meat works, Chinese money of course, which will enhance the industry and the export market.
Good country pollies like Barnaby Joyce and Bob Katter are the heroes of the bush. They support the Gallalie coal basin and proposed infrastructure.
Stuff the barrier reef, it might be pretty but when did anyone from out here last snorkel there or were in awe of its rare beauty.
Like other outback places, Hughenden will again prosper some day.
Are the Greenies loved out here!!  Everyone away from the coastal strip KNOWS they’re nuts.
The most popular bar sign in pubs is something like “Save the planet: Bulldoze a Greenie!!”
Peter the refueller was out to top us up, and to also pump a few million litres of kero into the Rex Saab, which was due in.
However, the Rex plane had a bird-strike on short final, possibly one engine ingested a galah—there were dozens about.
The Captain decided to call it a day and contacted the company for another aircraft to come out.
All the pax hoping to continue on to Mt Isa will be cooling their heels at Hughenden for a while.
As I sat in the terminal doing my daily BP check, ECG check, and waiting for the ACE inhibitor, Beta Blocker, Diuretic, Aspirin and Clopidogrel platelet inhibitors to ‘kick in’, I reflected on how life was once less complicated when pilot medicals were realistic.
Less complicated, but certainly not richer!!
Then a Cessna Caravan came in—loaded with cops—a few in uniform, many not—about a dozen, both blokes and girls—probably off on our money for a conference at the beach—maybe the Barrier Reef!!??
So we packed up the UGlyDuckling and took off for Undara, an over-expensive resort which would no doubt be packed with the aforesaid Greenies!
And it was!
Our flight however, at 8000 was over some real ‘tiger country’ at first—massive gorges, ravines, dry riverbeds and wooded areas.
North of Hughenden, above the fluffy Cu

Occasional station homesteads appeared every fifty miles or so. Many stations out here are as big as smaller European countries, and much larger that many Pacific Islands.
Tiger Country
Big Station, Big dam

At 112Kts average it was a good smooth flight, but landing here was a bit of a challenge as there was no windsock, so the runway selection was a bit of a guess, yet uneventful.
The minibus from Undara resort came out and so here we are in beautifully restored railway carriage, in the middle of the bush, with wall-to-wall greenies in awe at the expanse of the country, yearning for their beloved quarter acre blocks.
Our carriage
Bathroom attached


The plumber joined them to view the huge ancient lava tubes and listen to the frogshit about saving the environment.
Checking if he can afford  a small bowl of chips
We have decided that at prices beyond our means we will only stay one night here and head off to Georgetown, where real people live and toil, tomorrow.

Tues 20th June (Day 13)
After a good sleep on Queensland Rail, we organised a trip out to the airfield—only 6km, and $12 each way.
We climbed out of this artificial gem of a place, wallets and credit cards shattered beyond belief, and tracked for Georgetown, cruising at only 3,500 over some pretty rugged former volcanic country.
Landed on the great sealed runway here at midday, and called the refueller on the ‘Bat Phone’ (AKA the Sat Phone)
He topped us from drums at a reasonable price, and then drove us into town and we are settled into the Wenaru pub—almost exactly ten years to the day since we were here last in 2007. Good pub, good value, and we can afford a scotch each tonight!!

Time for a good rest this afternoon, and a good feed tonight as we didn’t break our fast at Undara. 
And then it will be off to Julia Creek tomorrow.
The pub turned out to be hopeless, crappy food, very basic rooms.
Only interesting thing to note in the name Wenaru—seems years ago a bunch of pissheads built the place out of home-made bricks, and it took so long between hangovers that all the locals kept asking When Are You (going to finish!!) Hence the name.

The publican showed little interest in driving us out to the airfield in the morning, phone access etc, so we have arranged for Wayne the refueller to take us; he’s a great bloke!


Wed 21st June (Day 14)
Wayne picked us up right on 8am, and waited while we pre-flighted and loaded up; and we were in the air for Julia Creek by 8:45am. We climbed to 6,500 where it was smooth and the air still reasonably cool.
Flat plains with dried creeks for miles
Over miles of real tiger country initially, and abut 5o miles from Julie creek the terrain changed to flat open country again.
Great Creek beds, some with water holes
A bit of tiger country

Homestead with airstrip
Approach Julie Creek

Most of the runways up here run basically east-west due to the prevailing winds, and again we joined down-wind for rwy 04.
A nice modern terminal, used daily by Rex and regularly by the RFDS, and a land-line to call Julia from Gannons Hotel-Motel to come out and collect us-- the airstrip is quite a way from the town.
Native Companions beside road into town

We are in a great comfortable and clean motel room behind the pub.
The tourist info centre is right next door, and of course we had to attend the 3pm Julia Creek Dunnat feeding!!  About as big as a mouse, but a rare tiny marsupial indigenous and unique to this area.
We Dunnat!


Thurs 22nd June (Day 15)
Nice meal at Gannons last night. This pub/motel is very modern and very clean. Julia and Peter, an ‘elderly couple’ run the place and also have a station of 35000 acres a bit South.
Julia Creek

The pub was recently burned down whilst let to tenant proprietors and hence is so new. We have come across six or seven similar instances in outback QLD, and it seems to suggest the good ‘ole Jewish stock-take characteristic of balancing the budget in the harsh outback still occurs occasionally.
That aside, Julia was very helpful in collecting us from the airport yesterday and returning us there this morning, right on eight o’clock as arranged.
And also ringing the council to get the entrance code for access to theUGlyDuckling.
Julia few light aircraft years ago and learned to fly at Tyabb (Vic) in the 1960’s.
Despite her age, Julia Creek was NOT named in her honour.
Their son also had a C150 some time ago.
We took off at 9am and landed at Mt Isa at 10:15am,a distance of 126nm. Very smooth at 4,500 all the way.

Approach Mt Isa
Lots of hilly billy-goat country approaching Isa, and many mine sites.
Refuelled, tied down and accepted a $24 taxi ride into town, to the Central Point motel.
It is a public holiday here tomorrow and I have decided to have a rest day also. We had hoped to hire a car for a good look around.
However none available from the four well known rental places.
We walked (me with mobility assistance) into the big central shopping centre, where I spend over an hour changing my phone over from Aldi Mobile to Telstra, and hence may now have coverage at most places we stop at.
Later, we arranged to take the courtesy bus into town to the Buffalo Club-what a scream. 
Cooks Tour
Had  enough!
We are some 300 meters from the club, however with pick-ups and drops off, we were taken on an amazing Cooks tour of Mt Isa; in fact it took 55 minutes to reach our 300 meter-distant destination.
Up all the back blocks, out of town and back again, around several of the mines, past the show grounds, shopping centres; the lot!
Frid 23rd June (Day 16)
My impression is that this town is a clone of Broken Hill. Average fibro and iron sheeting houses, high tin fences everywhere, dead cars in yards, humpies for many of the traditional owners.
So who needs a hire car anyway? I will rest here most of the day and the plumber has booked a tour of the tourist mine areas including underground, with all the OH&S garb on.
He will probably return as a fully paid member of the CFMEU!!
Being a public holiday for the annual show, there are also many features for equestrians including rodeo riding and other outback horse events.
I trust the TAB will NOT be involved,  however I am holding his wallet just in case.
I would expect the appropriate gratitude when he returns.
Flight Plan Amendment:--  We had planned to fly to Barkly Homestead Roadhouse tomorrow (215nm) and stay the night there. However, they are booked out completely, so we have no option but overfly and on to Tennant Creek, total distance 306nm.
So a decent flight for this ‘ole bloke tomorrow. We will leave early and get well on the way before the inevitable heat.
And likely spend a penny or two at Heathers old home-town of Tennant Creek!!


Sat 24th June (Day 17)
Last night we got another courtesy bus to the Irish Club of Mt Isa. A nice, clean place with decent meals and arrangements for drinkers of alcoholic beverages.
Sunset IsaWith a longish flight (today) I showed great constraint and had a schooner of soda water.
Irish Club
To wash down an Irish pot-pie with veg, before an early ride home in the bus again. And so we have had a couple of Cooks tours of Mt Isa  ‘on the house’.
The taxi we booked for 7:45 this morning was right on time, and we were able to pack up, pre-fight and be in the air by 8:30 local time.
Beautifully smooth conditions and we levelled out at 7,000 and a great run to YTNK.
Even though Barkly Homestead had no accommodation for us, we diverted over the place and took some pictures. 

Barkly Roadhouse Rwy
Barkly at 'three ways'
There were two fixed wing a/c inbound, plus a chopper down at 1000 feet to avoid nose-bleeds.
Then back on track for a great flight to Tennant Creek where we are the only aircraft tied down on the field.
We were assured by the ARO that AVGAS sniffing is not a problem here, and hope the very high fence assures that that is the case.
Approach YTNK
Handsome bloke with mobility aid
Bloke without mobility aid

Oh dear, this place is sure a sad indictment of everyone I guess.
All the shop windows are boarded up or covered with mesh grills, the local traditional owners have nothing to do but drink their sit-down money, and then attend one of the many government charitable ‘agencies’ for more.
No free drugs here!
The cops sit outside the drive-through bottle hop and if the locals wand a two litre handbag they must show some ID, which they seem to have trouble doing.
I’m afraid it is no longer the place where my darling Heather lived as a young lady, and where her parents ran a successful and well controlled retail business.
However the motel room at the Goldfields pub is clean and well maintained, yet in the bar the local indigenous are served in a wire mesh enclosure.
Of course it is all my fault, but they seem to manage with free ‘housing’ and even a dog-food subsidy—I wonder what the poor skinny dogs eat while their masters hit the grog!
Our Digs YTNK
The mighty UGlyDuckling
Tomorrow we will leave this tourist mecca and head off to Hooker Creek, refuel there, and on to Halls Creek for the night.

Fortunately the airfield at YHLC is right beside the pub/motel and the fences are rather expansive!

Sun 25th June (Day 18)
I may have been a little brutal yesterday in my assessment of Tennant Creek. Brutal perhaps, but honest and others will of course form their own conclusions.
The plumber went for his usual between-drinks strole and for those still smarting from my comments, I have included a couple of his pics.
Kindly go back and see a couple which paint  a slightly alternate picture.
Now for today!
We got a ride out the airport with the only taxi—the driver was still in bed at 8am, but did be bound out!
We were picked up and ten bucks later were loading up, and in the air by 8:30 local.
The plan was to fly to Hooker Creek, land and top up fuel, and then on to Halls Creek. 
In fact we flew to direct, without diverting into Hooker Creek, and still attired at YHLC having used 108 litres, ie with 72 useable remaining.
Total distance for the day—380nm. 
Thus we crossed from NT into WA and completed a non-stop crossing of the Tanami Desert.
A nice modern pub at YHCL, but not cheap. John Lindsay and I landed here a couple of years ago for coffee and then on again; and years earlier I stayed here camping under the wing with Des Pitts.
But that’s another story—these days the airfield is surrounded by appropriate fences and has ‘secret numbers’ to enter/leave.
The pub of course has its own arrangements for the locals; pub security all day in the place, but the indigenous seem pretty well subdued with a slab or two on board.
Again, welcome to  Country!

Monday 26th June (Day 19)
After a good rest and slep, we were up early to avoid the inevitable heat, for the 235nm flight from Halls Creek to Derby.
Queue for fuel YHLC
Derby Terminal
Approach Derby
Happy Hour YHLC

Over some very interesting tiger country, steep parallel ridges for miles, open cut mines, and marginal cattle country.
I think Gena Reinhart would have been out here making a few quid recently.
Approaching Derby the sea was visible for the first time, and the main runway is approached from over a flat sand bar.
Derby has the second highest tides in the world—and this smart arse was able to tell our driver (free drive from the  Derby Lodge) that the highest tides in the world occur at the Bay of Fundy!!
The tides OUT
Sunset Derby
Ditto
Ditto
We plan to fly to Cape Leveque in the morning, and after landing and having a $60 dollar coffee there (Traditional owners these days) we will fly coastal along the beautiful Kimberly Coast to Broome for a few days R & R!!
Boab trees Derdy, and most places up here!

Tuesday 27th June (Day 20)
Today we had planned to fly to Cape Leveque, perhaps stay the night, and if not, land there for lunch and then fly into Broome for about a four days break!
These days however, Cape Leveque is ‘owned’ by the Kooljaman people however they are, and run by pale skinned people on their behalf.
Hence the accommodation which is very basic to say the least, is also very expensive even though you get a mozzie coil and a mozzie net thrown in at no extra charge.
Permission to land is also required; the emailed form which I can't post, is a joke!!
The restaurant however is pretty flash and the cooking (mainly) non-bush tucka.
We headed off for Cape Leveque, but the plumber got some idea in his head that we should have a look at the horizontal waterfalls.

Now as a plumber he should have had a reasonable knowledge of hydraulics and been aware that water does not fall horizontally except in severe storms.
He won this futile argument of course and hence it was a fifty nm diversion to a place called Talbot Bay which is near the falls, and I think the pictures confirm my point! We did not land at Talbot Bay as theUGlyDuckling is NOT a float plane.
Our pics were from 3000’ with charter flights circling below, plus choppers at 500’ to avoid nose bleeds as usual.
Water doing what it always does--Flowing DOWN to the lowest point!
Pretty Specko scenery though
3000' over THAT water!
And then another 63 nm to Cape Leveque for an interesting landing on their narrow dirt strip.
Inbound THAT water!!

 Not at all dangerous, but I doubt this strip would conform to any cascara requirements, with several aircraft parked right on the edge of the threshold—the ONLY place.
Two young pilots we had met back at Halls Creek came in here in C210’s on charter flights for Leopold Air. (Broome based).
No room to park off the strip


After breakfast of carrot cake and icecream for me, and barra with the lot for the plumber, we left this pretty place at 2:30 for Broome.

Broome tower were very helpful directing us in for a RIGHT base on rwy 22—unusual, as it is usually in from over Cable Beach!

Wed 28th June (Day21)

We booked into the Roebuck pub (motel room) last night for the start of a few days in Broome. Almost the whole place is booked out with the usual stronads, and school holidays start next Monday! This morning we picked up abut the very last available hire car-Holden Barina(YUK!!) and are starting to find a few old haunts since Heather and I flew here in theUGlyDucking MANY years ago, and again in the camper van recently.
A very interesting town with much to see.
The plumber reakons he may even have a game of golf; whatever that is!
I believe the place has a bar!!
It’s a bit cool this morning, and we will see how the day progresses.


Things warmed up a bit in the afternoon, but we decided we could upgrade a bit to a motel room.  

The ‘Roey’ is a gigantic pub occupying a full block, heaps of good rooms, plus backpackers, a drive-through bottle shop (with ID!!), several restuarants and many bars.
I have added a couple more pics from Cape Leveque and a couple showing the beautiful coastal islets which extent for miles coastal towards Broome.
Our first day touring here included the port area, the golf club, china town, the pistol club, and of course Cable Beach.
In the afternoon we visited the war museum—many younger people are not aware how much of a pounding Broome got during WW2.
Huge losses here
We dined in the evening at a Thai place nearby. They were quite busy, but neither of us were very impressed with the food, or the subsequent account which we were however, obliged to pay!

Thurs 29th June (Day 22)
A top breakfast at what is now known as the Runway and Hangar Bar, where Heather and I broke our fast one morning a couple of years ago.
For nostalgia I had eggs Benedict (didn’t see the pope there tho); and as the plumber is just a growing lad he opted for the BIG breakfast. Plus excellent coffee and hot chocolate.
Need one of these for the 'flight deck'
Since then I have driven him out for the inevitable game of golf—what a strange affair!!
He has hired an electric wheelchair thing to get around the course in, a heap of wrong handed (ie RIGHT) golf-hitting sticks, some teas (even tho he doesn’t drink tea to my knowledge), and he has purchased four balls to hit into the bushes with the sticks!
Bingo would have been much cheaper, safer and predictable!
Each to his own.
For my part, I have visited Broome Aviation Maintenance and the UGlyDuckling is having an oil change and filter—right on time!!
It will be ready about 2pm by which time the plumber will have lost his balls and found the bar!!

Such is life!! It will be my duty to drive him home to ‘the Roey’ where I may even have a single malt after a modest dinner.
Happy Birthday my beautiful youngest Grand-daughter--now 18!!
Frid 30th June (Day 23)
Now the plumber is a very disciplined person, and has declared that he will only have a drink on days ending in ‘y’.
Very resourceful I thought, but suggested that using the French translation he should imbibe only on days NOT ending in ‘i’.
This suggestion was immediately rejected and he is off searching for the Irish calendar, where no such severe restrictions exist.

Last evening we dinned on take-away lamb kebabs. Quite superb, but I think perhaps old Merino wether, not lamb!
Maybe camel, there were dozens of them parading along Cable Beach.

To be fair, I had a couple of beers with him as a treat, and I DID have that double single malt, for medicinal purposes of course!
This morning it was raisin toast and coffee for me, but he again chose the big breakfast.
China town this time, right next door to our pub.

For any followers (if we have any) who are unfamiliar with the term ‘stronad’, I thought I should perhaps explain, after all I have been, and will again become one myself some time!!
Having copyrighted the word in 2015 under the Copyright Act 1968 (as amended), it should appear as the Oxford word of the year in December.
Basically, it is a composite of Stray Gonads, my former term for Grey Nomads, with which the surface of the earth is overwhelmed.
Stronad is apparently less offensive and hence its now enjoys universal acceptance.
Stronads come in a number of varieties; the main ones being as follows:

The top of the range stronads are affluent, but generally boring. Most drive expensive Winnabagos, and many still own their own homes.
Totally self-contained down to the Sunday roast, generally hunting in packs, a cut above the rest, and happy to let that be known.

Ages vary from fifty to ninety; the older ones being the friendliest.

At happy hour they open Passion Wine, Cold Duck or Porphyry Pearl and down it with goose liver paté and crackers.

The next group drive Toyota Landcuisers with collapsible tents on top, boats behind, mud and dust covered, and always heading for river and sea.
Friendly to all, serious beer drinkers, steak eaters and adventurers. They have done this many times before!

Then we have Grownads-- simply, dwarfs on a leash.
And Blownads—Young bucks in their beaten up bombs, late arrivals at camp and serious exponents of doof-doof music. They often just stop for a pee, or to open another can.

Glownads—eighteen to forties. Usually in pairs, often one of each gender and many form Europe. Their hired campervans tend to rock now and then at night.

Stronads—The genuine original variety, and head of the pack. Fifty to ninety, mostly Australian, unemployed, retired or working for centrelink.

Snownads— often graying or bald, sometimes called greynads, usually travelling on busses. Serious tea drinkers; but generally cupboard drinkers at night.
Mix well with other stronads, are often from overseas, adventurous and multi lingual. True stronads.

Genuine stronads are mostly sixty or over, some much older and some much younger.
In converted Combi Vans, through Coasters to what were once Leyland buses.
Pretty much self-contained, but often with generators, which annoy the shit out of the more affluent stronads. 
Usually canivores.

Diets include pasta, fresh road-kill and pre-packed food, salami, beer, wine and occasionally scotch.
This is a brief and very generalized stronadophile.

There are and will be many more sub-species from time to time.  

But as we fly about we see for miles and they are limited to viewing the nearby bushes or lack of bushes, or the dust they are creating and following.

Those dust streams look interesting from far above!

I am blessed to have done BOTH!!
Cable Beach
Pool at pub
I have driven out to the airport again to check that they cut the oil filter open and can confirm they did and all is well with theUGlyDucklings’ engine.
Top-up time for pills!!
Traffic Cop I think?
It is about thirty degrees here today, and all I have really been doing is resting.
I will search for the plumber later and we will dine together, and again call the lads at the ‘flight deck’ back at Minto—usually ten to a dozen on a Friday night—with the fire blazing no doubt.!


Sat 1st July (Day 24)

Now I love Indian food. But the meal last night was particularly savage, indeed almost vindictive, which is perhaps the Mumbai word for vindaloo.
The spices would make Tabasco, black chilies or molten steel taste insipid.
Something like tender pieces of lamb and goat meat marinated in rocket fuel, and spontaneously combustible.
Very character building however.
It made the long waddle home particularly hazardous.
An ice-cream each on the way back soothed things slightly.
The plumber however was well anaesthetized after a long day at the brass rail; and granted me first access to the bathroom.
I’m sure you needed to know all that!!

Today is our last day in this sunny, warm, stronad-crowded summer place, and it will be on to Sandfire tomorrow where I have booked a room.
Should be no trouble getting a clearance out of Broome; I guess they will give us an intersection departure. He won the argument however and hence it required a fifty mine diversion

And then on to Port Hedland on Monday, before starting our adventure southwards and thence eastwards.
Yes, diet Pepsi!!
Amphib Cessna, base for 04
Tide coming in

The hire-car hasn’t had a great deal of use, we may go back to Cable beach at sunset and perhaps watch a few aircraft come in.
Popular spot--most are in the bar behind!!
Off to the Indian Restaurant??

Going...
Gone---No twilight here, just like a light switch!
Nearly...


And then an early night, following  a suitable Scottish sedative.


Sun 2nd July (Day25)

Up early and returned the car by 8am, and then had to w-a-i-t for the Ground Controller to collect us from the wrong gate at which the secret numbers did not work.
After he settled down he drove us to theUGlyDuckling about a mile away and we called the BP fuel tanker and settled down for another wait.
Eventually fuelled up, pre-flighted, and requested an intersection departure from taxiway Foxtrot 2, which was granted.
Took off on rwy 04 over the town and was requested to climb coastal and report passing 5,500. Sixteen minutes later, ‘resume own navigation’—it was a long hot climb!
Then leveled out and enjoyed the scenery of the beautiful eighty mile beach, and finally inland a bit to Sandfire.
After tying down (the plumbers duty), I waddled with my mobility aid the 350-odd metres to the roadhouse to join the endless file of stronads calling in for diesel all day.
Those iconic sausage rolls were popular and as fine as usual, the plumber enjoyed a brace plus one of them, before he discovered that the place also sold pre-packed liquids to his liking.
Dozens of stronads have settled in the park this evening, we have eaten our healthy salad sandwiches and our room is clean, has aircon and ice and a drachm of Scotch in the ‘fridge for later.
There are a dozen self-contained rooms amongst the frangipani trees and I think we are the only inhabitants this evening.
And of course why not—all the stronads have their own arrangements.

I have now booked into Port Hedland for tomorrow night, and we will circle Finicane Island inbound, where my Heather worked for some time, in another life.

And I have at last found a place at Marble Bar for Tuesday night, and the proprietor will collect us from the airfield!


Monday 3rd July (Day 26)

The stronads began filing our of the camp grounds at 7am, towing or driving their retirement villages, mainly towards Broome where temporary camping lots will be getting pretty scarce.
They left having mostly consumed sustenance constructed in their village kitchens I guess, there was no stampede for the Sandfire bakery where those sausage rolls were again appearing at the counter.
Being civilized we opted for a sit-down breakfast in the dining are—after all baked beans are a significant, if not challenging start to any flight.
Having checked the flight schedules for Port Hedland, it seemed appropriate to get into this place at about noon, after a departing Virgin flight, and just prior to an arriving Qantas one.
The flight along the eighty-mile beach was superb, but only getting 95 knots.
Why its called the eighty-mile beach seems a bit strange as it runs from Broome to Port Hedland and beyond.
Called the tower at 20nm advising we had received the ATIS (Delta) and were directed to land on runway 14. Taxied for fuel, and then parked beside a C150 and a Cherokee, the only two GA aircraft on the field.
Inboud YPPD Piles of industrial salt
Airfield to left

And they call this an International Airport—bit of a joke unless someone flies in from Dili or somewhere!
Qantas lounge very busy!!

We are staying at the Walkabout Hotel—quite a flash place adjacent to an acre of dongas for the hard working miners!
 
Tomorrow will be a short milk-run to Marble Bar, and the following day down to Newman, another mining town.

Cloudy and cool here this afternoon so we didn’t brave the pub pool, outside our room.


Tuesday 4th July (Day 27)
A short taxi ride to the Hedland International airport where pre-assigned secret numbers were successful in gaining access through gate 7, to the busy GA parking area where the UGlyDucking was parked beside the same 150, Cherokee and a Hornet RAA thing being slowly reclaimed by the red soil and the searing sun.
 
After pre-flighting and warming up we contacted the tower and were offered to taxi to the threshold of rwy 14, or to do an intersection departure if preferred.
We choose the former, and at 20nm out woke the tower again and informed them of our heading and altitude and that was that!
That ASIC had made us immensely important!

 
Quite a bit of lumpy country coming into Marble Bar, which is typical of former gold bearing country perhaps, and then a flat plateau and into a now-sealed l-o-n-g- runway and the tin terminal where those same signs in the bogs still warn to check for snakes in the bowl before settling in!
After tying down we called the Travellers’ Rest and before long Lang (no relation to THAT one) was out to collect us in his Toyota ‘ute for the ride into town.

Good basic motel-type rooms behind the servo/shop/roadhouse, and after booking in we settled for their home made take-away curried sausages and rice. Great.

Lang does a bit of flying also. He has over 11,000 hours mustering in a C150, and these days flies a Robinson 44 chopper to check on the one million acre property just south of here!

We both had a bit of a nap in our room, and I didn’t hear the plumber wake and head out—there’s a distinct possibility be had walked into town to check out the famous Iron Clad Pub.
The 600 metre walk was a bit much for me, so I asked a young bloke who was filling his Landcruiser with diesel if he was going into town. ‘No mate, I’ve just got back, sorry’.
Then it clicked that I was a tourie, and he said  ‘Shit mate, when someone asks if you’re going into town out here, they mean Port Hedland. Sure, I can run into you town here, hop in!!’
6pm, mid winter
After a stubbie at the Iron Clad and a couple of photos, we both WALKED back to our room!! I asked the barman what beer he had-and he ran his hands along the row of  dusty empty cans and stubbies on the shelf.

‘Got Carlton Draught?’

‘Shit, another one of those wierdos from down south?.’ I quickly replied

‘if it wasn’t for us wierdos mate, you’d have gone broke years ago.’

A few other weirdos smiled, and I think he acknowledged the reality of it all!  After all the stronads have started to hear of Marble Bar also!!

As we were leaving the plumber became very distraught. The sign on the front of the pub was advertising the Annual Marble Bar Cup!!—held on 1st July each year—only three days ago!!
Oh NO!!!
Apparently the town was alive with hundreds in for the biggest event of the year.
How had he not known about THAT from his comprehensive racing diary??
He was beyond consoling!
Jaspar 'slice' in park

Further reference to said diary indicated that there are races at Kalgoolie next Saturday 9th July.

A compromise is needed to be reached to accommodate this event and treat his now intractable depression.
It we could stay a further day in Kal while I rested, he could go to the races.
This would however eliminate Caiguna from the proposed plan, and instead require a direct flight of four hundred miles from Kal to Forest—a real test of bodily restraint.
His condition is so severe and miserable, that I have agreed.
There could also be a further day of rest at Forest, which is fine by me!!

Wednesday 5th July (Day 28)
It is freezing at 7am here, in the hottest town in Australia. We will leave here later and head down to Newman, where we have no accommodation arranged yet, but there is plenty available.
We may need a bit of local knowledge as the airport is apparently a long way out of town.
In the meantime, after devouring the continental breakfast supplied in our room, Lang called and offered to take us for bit of a tour of his town before dropping us off at the airport.
And it seems the place is HIS town. A plaque outside the town hall lists him as a Councilor, Mayor and OAM recipient.
Sturt peas
Lang at Jasper outcrop/pool
Ditto
He made no mention of those matters, but is very proud of all the sealed roads put in recently; the well equipped community park and general cleanliness of the place.
He drove us to see the jasper outcrops and pool, the historic former town hall, and then for a close look at his latest toy, a Robinson 44 chopper parked behind his house. (There is also an older R22 in the adjacent shed).
Top toy
Old town hall
We were perhaps hoping for a ride to the airport in the R44, but it was into the trusty ‘ute for the trip out.
Lang insisted on helping us load up, waited while I pre-flighted, stared and warmed up, and was still parked there when we lifted off.  Think he’s a bit of an aviation nut.
The flight to Newman was uneventful at 5,500, but again only getting 95-100kts. The topography of the land however is interesting and ever changing, with a small mountain range  (Opthalmia Range) (3,450’) and huge ponds and pools of water near the township, and massive mines for miles surrounding.
Ophthalmia range
Serious mine!
Natural lake behind wing
Ditto
Ponds

Perhaps the mining boom is over, but no one has told the locals yet!
Australia still has vast deposits of iron ore that even Gena hasn’t found yet and no doubt the prices will come back again some day!
(We saw a vast iron ore train at Hedland a couple of days ago, and the locals say the longest on record in 7.4Km!!!!)
WA COPS??
Nowhere much to park GA
Approach Newman
It was a thirty dollar taxi ride into town here, and the pubs, classified as ‘resorts’ are pretty miserable places, mainly with donga-type rooms.
Pizza for tea, and early to bed. I did however have ONE scotch at the bar—can’t have it straight because of our traditional owners!!—must be as a ‘mixer’; however the barman agreed that ice and a teaspoonful of soda would just be within the law!!
I made some calls to Meekathara for a bed tomorrow night and we have the last twin room in one of the three pubs there—I hope it’s not because of the Meekathara cup.

Thursday 6th July (Day 29)
A bit of a look around Newman, not that here’s much to see in own.
And then a thirty-dollar ride out to the airport, which is not very welcoming for use GA peasants.
Even those brilliants ASIC medallions don’t allow us access to the public terminal, only a crappy tin shed, and secret number will again be needed for entry to where the UGlyDuckling is parked. A slow 203nm run to Meekathara at between 7,500 and 8000’, only getting some 95kts.

After one hundred miles of interesting but empty country we passed over a station. Why out here, it looks pretty marginal country. But at least they have a dirt runway and a nearby dirt track that must lead somewhere.
 
John from the Commercial pub drove out an collected us and took us to his old place where e are in the only room twin room in town tonight.

And upstairs too!
And no, it’s not the Meeka cup!
The town has been in decline for many years, but recently there has been a researgence in mining, mainly for gold.
We passed over a couple of very large pits. (wrong side for pics).
Unfortunately for the town the miners are mostly FIGO workers and don’t get to spend too much time or money in their town
A pity.
It was freezing here during the night, even with the aircon reverse cycle set on high heat.
The plumber is back in trackie dacks and I will when I get out to the strip in the morning.

Friday 7th July (Day 30)

We will be off to Leonora today, 200nm; and hope to confirm some accommodation there before we lift off!
I made several calls early last evening and got return messages from the Leonora Motel. However. Since changing to Telstra only after just one ring it goes to message bank, which seems impossible to cancel without talking to someone in Bangladesh.
We will see!
After the battle of upstairs living, it was nice to have an included good continental breakfast down stairs this morning.
I had almost forgotten what real toast and vegemite tasted like.
And then out to the airfield again with John, about five Km; for an interesting flight of 200nm to Leonora.
Again the winds aloft were not assisting us, and at 7,500 we were only getting 95-100Kts most of the way.
And under high cirrus cloud for the second 100nm it became quite lumpy for a while.
Some 80 miles out we passed over Lake Mason, with a large body of probably fresish-water, and further in a number of salt lake marked on the WAC, but also looking well topped up—I guess salt water though.
Salt lakes
Lake Mason

Many mining pits out here also, several looked a bit abandoned, but quite a few actively searching for gold.
100 nm out--where would the track go??
Old pits
The town of Leonora itself didn’t seem particularly flushed with gold however.
Population 1,200, and pretty static. Again, many miners FIFO, and not spending their winnings in town to a great extent.
The airfield is excellent however, with heaps of new sealed taxiways and parking bays for RPT; Skippers being the main WA mob who fly in here.
Nowhere to tie down for bug-crushers yet however; I hope theUGlyDuckling is still there in the morning.
Also Jet A1 only, no Avgas, but e have plenty left in the tanks for YKAL tomorrow, if the suntanned petrol sniffers are kept at bay.
Massive spiked security fences to keep the lovely traditional owners out, and secret number to keep us terrorists with ASICS in. Until they were reluctantly divulged, by a friendly council ‘worker’ (a misnomer of course) who rang the town hall for the numbers we needed.
No access to the ‘terminal’ which was locked, as were the dunnies!
Hence the tarmac has been cleansed with copious fluids!
When did we change to metres A.S.L.??
We have booked into the Leonora Hotel and after waiting half an hour a car arrived and we had a ten Km ride into the town.
Hardly a flourishing place, three pubs all struggling a bit, and this massive motel with about ten in for the night.
Main street just on dusk!
And it’s freezing!!
Comparatively, Faraday is in heat-wave conditions at present!

Saturday 8th July (Day 31)

There is a thick fog here this morning, and our heaters are on full rich.
When it clears we will arrange a ride to the airfield, bound for Kalgoolie.
I think I previously mentions there are races there today, but that is tomorrow.
No doubt another serious fiscal issue for the plumber.
His choice, none of my business!!
So today and tomorrow in YKAL, then the log flight to Forest direct, on Monday.

(A brief note for the unwashed:  These notes are nothing but a brief personal diary, to be willingly shared by anyone prepared to take the risk. Written on the run and always hurried, and where and wherever we have some sort of 'coverage' to put them 'online'.
Those interested in the FULL story will be able to read about in book form before too long.
Descriptions of places visited on the ground may be found in detail using Prof Google, but to really know what it’s all about up there, you will need to either be a flyer, or become one!
It’s an experience you will become addicted to and it will never be equaled.


End of brief note!)


The fog eventually lifted, and we scored a ride out to the airfield with the boss from the motel.
I explained that it was a win-win arrangement. We put notes on OzRunways such as ‘call bill from the xyz motel for a free ride into town, or pay thirty dollars for a taxi which won’t turn up’!
‘theblacksheep’ has made comments on every airfield I were I have landed, including on previous trips; it all helps. Other regulars in the outback include ‘conscious pilot’, ‘jabiru barrie’, and ‘john the pap test’!!

The flight to Kalgoolie was low, slow and with heaps of potholes. The maximum ceiling was 3000, but most of the way was at 2000.
When I called inbound at YPKG with an ETA for the circuit, a Barron called inbound from the west with the same ETA. We chatted and I told him we would circle the super-pit while be went in, and then follow.
It had started to rain, but the sun was shining over the super-pit, and I think the plumber got some photos.
After we landed and taxied for fuel we met up with Ian Williams from Albany Aviation (his company); on a charter flight out of Jandakot with four pax.
He was a wealth of knowledge. He regularly flies through Kal, and with contacts at the Palace hotel, was able to call them and get us into about the last fully self-contained room at a very reasonable price.
And this place is a gem—something like the Shamrock in Bendigo was in better times, but far more opulent.
We chatted for a while, but it started pissing rain as be taxied out to take off again.
His next stop with his pax is Forest, and he suggested we should book there straight away for Monday night, as it was packed out.
A DC3 charter flight had flown in there and one engine had shit itself. About ten pax had found other flights home, but quite a few were still stuck in Forest.
An engine for the DC3 is being flown in by a Carribu in a day or so, obviously with engineers to fit it.
We tied down outside the Kal Aero Clubrooms and took a $20 taxi into town.
The taxi drive said he had to hose ice off hi cab this morning before starting work.
I’m not surprised, it’s bloody freezing.
Oh for the warmth of Faraday where it’s 12 degrees today, 10 degrees tops here!!!
I called Kim and Rob at Forest and we have a house there for Monday night, and probably also Tuesday.
It should be fun with a large bunch of fellow aviators, and all meals are with the managers in their dining room.
Kim asked if we had any food/drink allergies, and I mentioned that the plumber was allergic to beer.
He was not impressed!!
So here we are in Kal. The plumber will be off to the races tomorrow and I will have a great rest in our ‘palace’, aware that Hay Street has been declared out of bounds—and is probably beyond my financial capacity in any case!
After take-away for lunch, the plumber headed off on his inevitable rounds of the thirty or so pubs here, and being a good and respectable chap I returned to our ‘palace’.
He arrived home VERY late; it’s a big place and he probably got a bit lost!
I will no doubt get his modified version of what really happened, in the morning!


Sunday 9th July (Day 32)
The plumber slept soundly and remained in a state of semi-consciousness until it was time to rise for breakfast at 11am.
Oh Dear, do I really need to re-hydrate??
Studying the form guide
He complained of a severely painful knee, allegedly caused by a bite of some kind.
No tooth marks however, were evident on casual examination. Obvious bruising was present, which could have resulted from a collision with an unspecified hard object eg: the ground, the stairs or other unknown obstructions to his progress.
In due course he departed for the race track, and subsequently returned at 5:30pm with little he was prepared to report.
Doesn't look much, but very opulent inside
Herbert Hoover
A history lesson for today…..
‘As discussed yesterday, we are staying at the Palace Hotel, Kalgoolie-Boulder. Established in 1897, the Palace Hotel has been catering to the Goldfields and its visitors for more than 100 years. This beautiful hotel has accommodated some very famous people over the years including the writer, and the plumber.
Guests and visitors can view the magnificent carved wood frame mirror that Herbert Hoover had designed, made and sent to the Palace Hotel as a gift. It was widely held that Hoover fell in love with a barmaid at the Palace and the poem he wrote for her is also displayed in the foyer.
Herbert Clark Hoover (August 10, 1874 – October 20, 1964) was an American politician who served as the 31st President of the United States from 1929 to 1933 during the Great Depression.
A Republican, as Secretary of Commerce in the 1920s he introduced Progressive Era themes of efficiency in the business community and provided government support for standardization, efficiency and international trade.
As president from 1929 to 1933, his ambitious programs were overwhelmed by the Great Depression, which seemed to get worse every year despite the increasingly large-scale interventions he made in the economy.
A lifelong Quaker, he became a successful mining engineer around the globe and retired in 1912.
In the presidential election of 1928, Hoover easily won the Republican nomination, despite having no elected-office experience. Although Hoover never raised the religious issue, some of his supporters did in mobilizing anti-Catholic sentiment against his opponent Al Smith.
Hoover won in a landslide’.
….And so ends today’s history lesson.

In the meantime, I have completed a day of total rest, and tomorrow we will again commit aviation, and proceed EASTWARDS to Forest (YFRT).
In the middle of the Nullarbor, and just inside the WA border.

Monday 10th July (Day 33)
A long day filled with lots of aviation and related interests.
After packing up early we booked out of our upstairs Palace Hotel room and headed downstairs for coffee and raisin toast for breakfast.
Here we met Margaret, who with her husband Harry had been on the DC3 now stuck at Forest with one dead engine.
Along with a journalist they had chartered a flight to Kalgoolie and are presently staying at the Palace Hotel hopefully awaiting the DC3 in several days, to continue their trip.
And so we learned of the crowd stranded in Forest, although some have obtained flights out.
The normal population of Forest is TWO—Kim and Rob who manage the place.
It would have to be the most isolated place across the Nullabor, and one of the greatest in Australia.
Still, silent, star-filled skies, and brilliant sunrises and sunsets.
The only regular contacts with the outside world are supplies and mail dropped off by the Indian- Pacific once weekly, plus occasional light aircraft nuts like us, flying in!
And so now they have been catering for some nineteen passengers and crew of the DC3, and we will join them this evening.
Our flight from YPKG was long an uneventful.
View from Palace window sunrise
River about 35nm YPKG
On top, 8.500 feet, superb
Down through a hole approaching Forest
For three hundred and forty four miles, there is absolutely no sign of human habitation. We cruised firstly at 5000 under fluffy cu cloud, then found some holes, and were able to climb on top at 8,500 for a hundred miles or so.
Nearer Forest the cloud became less porous and we descended through a hole down to 3500 for the final hour.
Landed at Forest shortly after 2pm local and immediately refueled.
There was action everywhere at the hangar. The Caribou had arrived with a spare engine for the DC3 and there were engineers and hangers-on everywhere.
One-engined DC3
Caribou with engine for DC3


DC3 at dusk
theUGlyDucking-- shoved back out of their way!!!!!
Their ladies were in the managers residence playing cards, so we willingly accepted a tour of the place with Rob in his Landcruiser.
Forest 'station'
Lookout above museum
Round the pre-dinner fire
Out to the little ‘Museum’ with lots of historic photos and aviation related items on display, the old met office, the railway line and the Forest ‘station’—the ONLY one left on the Nullabor; and a general look around the tiny place.
Just on dusk, Rob fired up a pile of old wooden pallets with the help of a bit of Jet A1, and the whole group gathered round to keep warm, drink beer, meet each other, and tell lies. Rob passed round bowls of nuts and chips as pre-dinner nibbles, which were great.
There were more retired airline captains and engineers than I could count; all part of the HARS group. (Historic Aircraft Restoration Group, which owns the DC3, the Caribou, a Super Constellation and other early aircraft.)
Apparently there are over 500 ‘members’, and this trip included many pax who are associated with the HARS group.
As the fire died down a bit, Kim announced it was time for dinner.
She did a marvelous job feeding about nineteen people, all seated at tables in a warm room, with plenty of hot food for all, and then very nice sweets to follow.
A great meal with the group, and then back to our warm ‘digs’ for the night, with electric blankets on full!

In the morning most of the passengers will be flown out in the Caribou, leaving the engineers and pilots to try and fit an engine to the DC3 over the next few days!


Tuesday 11th July (Day 34)
An early ride for the HARS ladies heading off to YPKG and beyond, in the Caribou this morning.
Mustering time was 6am and we emerged to watch the loading, and the a/c take off shortly after 7am.
Sunrise towards hangar Caibou ready to load
70 Carriage freight train
 A loaded Caribou is no faster than a C172 so they would have a slow trip to Kal at about 2000 feet, into a head wind.
This left 4 engineers and two pilots from the group to somehow graft an engine into the DC3, which could take until the weekend or longer.
We were all together again for lunch which included superb pumpkin soup with bacon, and toasted ham and cheese sandwiches.
Kim again did an amazing job with little more than a domestic kitchen to prepare food for the hoards. Rob helped with the serving, and hopefully washing up is also his duty!!
As today is the official Western Australian annual geriatric day of rest, I did my duty and had a great sleep all afternoon.
In the meantime the plumber was out and about, as he should be, taking photos, some of which will appear amongst these notes.
We are getting to know the DC3 crew pretty well, and again at pre-dinner drinks we heard of their progress.
Dick, one of the Captains
BBQ/Fire area
Managers house where we all meet and eat!!

There are certainly challenges rigging up and getting an exchange engine fitted out here at Forest.
Minimal equipment, maximum and innovative adaption is certainly involved.
Another great meal prepared by Kim for dinner including nibbles served by Rob beforehand, and then chicken ‘parmas’ with mash, peas and salad, fresh bread rolls, and a chocolate pudding and ice-cream for sweets.
OUR house
Only nine to feed tonight, plus a Telstra bloke who is out here installing new batteries for their towers, and Kim and Rob were able to join us at the table also.
A great sleep in our cottage after a great evening.


Wednesday 12th July (Day35)

Another beautiful morning at Forest, and today we are off to Nullarbor Roadhouse, just off the coast of the ‘head’ of the Great Australian Bight.
Sunrise Forest
After a comprehensive breakfast of cereal, fruit, juice and toast, we packed up and visited the managers house two doors away, to settle up our accounts.
After fond farewells, Rob drove us out to the hangar with the UGlyDuckling tied down nearby.
Bob, a captain on the DC3 gave us both a comprehensive tour of the aircraft including the flight deck.
Pretty cramped in the LH seat, and far too many knobby-dialy things for me.
Old and complicated!!
Pre-flighted the UGlyDuckling and wished the engineers and pilots good luck with their very major undertaking.
We took of on runway 28, directly west, and after turning on track we had a great North Easterly breeze right up our jack!
Even in climb we could get 115kts, and in cruise at 6,500 we were getting long at between 125 and 130kts!!
Not a cloud I the sky, and we could see the ocean of the ‘Bight from about 45nm out from Nullarbor.
Ipad and phone times changed to SA time as we crossed over the WA border.
We have settled into a motel room at this rip-off place!
The dearest avgas of the whole trip so far.
Stronads everywhere, and prices for food and drinks are way over the top.
Just take it or leave it and top up at the next place, a couple of hundred Km either way (by road vehicles).
Tied down Nullarbor
We took it, but will be glad to get out of this hole in the morning, and will be flying mainly a  few nm off the coast all the way to out next stop at Streaky Bay tomorrow.
Should see quite a few whales at this time of the year also.

Thursday 13th July (Day 36)
My darling eldest daughters 51st Birthday today. And you can see from the picture she hasn’t changed a bit since last year!!
Many of the stronads were up having breakfast in their mobile retirement villages, and were then off out of here in a flash.
Coffee and look-at-it in our room, and now the plumber wants to wander out and play one hole of the longest golf course in the world. It’s the ‘Dingo’s Den' , par 5.
Top Golfer
Other golfer
Not a cloud in the sky looking north, and a bit of very high cirrus out to sea.
And winds again from the North-West so we should get a good run from here to Streaky Bay.
There is a young bloke doing charters out of here in a C182 over the whale watching areas and the head of the Bight.
Very expensive, but no doubt he will get a few quackers. He said he had followed our track on OzRunways, and was quite amazed how far we have traveled! (VH-BKW, parked next to us o/night)
After the golf exercise, we loaded up for the200-odd-nm flight to Streaky Bay.
About to leave YNUB
A week ago I had never heard of it, but from the comments on OzRunways it seemed a great alternative to Ceduna which has a $100 call out fee, is miles out of town and not very pilot friendly.
Having been there several times I was pleased to discover Streaky Bay (YKBY) as an alternative stop.
And how right that turned out to be.
Moreover, the flight today was almost all coastal along the cliffs and sandy beaches of the ‘Bight.
Beautiful coast, cliffs and sand
Great beaches
With a good breeze from the north West we were getting 125 to 130kt most of the wat.
And then quite a way out, with lots of small islands. We passed Ceduna over thirty miles out to sea. Didn't see any whales, but won't loose any sleep over that!!
Ceduna thirty miles in
Called Penny from the pub when we landed and she picked us up in the pub van, the airfield is some 10km out of town.
Biggles Bear has guarded me for my years!!!
Tied down Streaky Bay

What a great and beautiful town; this will go down as one of our favorite spots.
The pub is a great community owned hotel, and we are in a ground floor motel room attached.
We had lunch at Elliot(t)s bakery, and tea at the pub.
Wrong spelling again!
View at dusk from lounge bar
Our ground floor room round the side
From the front bar, the beautiful bay is almost within touching distance.
Heather has been here before, but it is all new to me.
A light shower of rain in the late afternoon, but the sky has now cleared and the stars are out.
Tomorrow it will be off to Port Pirie: 188nm from here, over the Eyre peninsular, and then about 40nm across Spencer Gulf to the airfield.

Friday 14th July (Day 37)
Up and packed, and then into the dining are for a great included continental breakfast. Juices, cereals, toast, yoghurt, fruit, and tea or coffee.
A mention of the airfield was all that was needed for a complimentary ride out to the plane.  A great value hotel/motel for only $110 for the two of us, all inclusive.
Except the beer, but happy hour more than fulfilled our needs!
There had been a brief shower overnight, and a few drops again this morning.
Lots of cloud about, but it appeared to be clearing and the radar and met seemed to confirm that.
We took off into the west, just after a Partanavia had landed, possibly the mail plane.
After turning East towards Pirie we were getting 115kts in the climb, and 125 at 3,500 feet which was about the cloud base. 

Cu at 3.500
Ship over gulf
On top 6,000
Spencer Gulf
About 50 miles from YKBY we climber through some hopes and stayed on top at 6000 for about an hour, then down to 4000 for the crossing of Spencer Gulf, from about 10nm south of Wyhalla.
On landing at YPIR the re-fueller was there as we taxied in, and the fuel price at $2.06 is better than mates-rates back at YKTN.
He suggested we could camp at his Dads’ place, and ‘Dad’ duly turned up with that offer.
A long story, but very hard to refuse until I came up with some feeble excuses. ‘Dad’ did however give us a very prolonged tour of the town before reluctantly dropping us off at the International Hotel.

‘Dad’ is exceedingly old, yet still flies a C182 frequently.
Indeed he is seventy-five, an age I can somewhat relate to!!
Here we have a twin motel room for $110 including breakfast.
‘Dad’ has even offered to drive us back out in the morning; a genuine offer from a nice bloke who seems a bit lonely.
We will graciously and thankingly decline.
In the meantime, we wonder if there are m(any) takers at the Flight Deck at Faraday this evening!!??


Saturday 15th July (Day 38)
Off to Renmark today, we are nearing the finish of this remarkable flight!!
The weather on our track out of Port Pirie was looking very ordinary, particularly with about 50nm of lumpy ground to cross before the flatter lands further South East.
After assessing, and checking met and radar we decided to have a go, on the basis that we would turn back if it was not clearly VFR over the high ground, or divert if necessary as we have full tanks again.
Initially the cloud base was 2,500, through a very light mist for a few minutes, but the horizon always visible.
As we approached the lumps I was able to climb to 3,500 with the tops well below, and several escape routes, even though one would involve a clearance thru Adelaide airspace.
Lumpy bits
Lumpy bits, cloud dase 2,500

After 60nm we were over the lumpy bits, and the rest of the run to Renmark was as flat as a ‘shit-carters hat’ and we could achieve 4000 for the run into Renmark.
Alas, it must be fly-day in the Barossa with lots of calls from the circuit lovers down playing on many unmarked strips, but all on 126.7
After landing at Renmark, it was time for some serious decision making.
I had insisted that theUGlyDuckling had earned a good health check after over 5000nm.
Hence Hopetoun was deleted from the plan and Horsham inserted instead.
I booked in for a routine check with Tony Brand for Monday morning. He and Peter Brand were about to leave for Oshkosh as I had initially planned to do also, but their engineers could attend to any health check on UGD.
After coffee and biscuits in the very nice but ‘nobody-home’ aero clubrooms, we decided to head on a further 165nm to Horsham.
LAKE HINDMARSH
AH &DG u/s

After all, the WX for tomorrow also looks average, and we would then miss the Monday appointment.
A good flight to YHSM, arriving about 4pm.
AND, we are now back on Victorian time again after just on six weeks!
Tied up, and collected the car left for us, and headed into town to the Horsham Motel.
I can have a full day of rest here tomorrow prior to the health check on theUGlyDuckling on Monday.
I would like to have the oil changed (third time), perhaps a new vac pump so the AH and DG work again!!, the landing light fixed PROPERLY this time and a general full medical for the ‘ole girl.
And this ‘ole bloke will be due for one again for that Cascara mob in about sixty days!!
Lets see how inflexible they really are after I interpret their riot act in a sane and evidence-based manner!!

Sunday 16th July (Day 39)
A full day of rest was duly accomplished!

Monday 17th July (Day 40)
Out to the airfield at 8:30am to check with the Cessna specialists and obtain an estimated time for completion of the full medical on theUGlyDuckling .
Cowls were off, a new off-the-shelf vacuum pump was fitted, oil drained and fresh oil added, a long standing problem with the landing light wires arcing identified and rectified, new nose-wheel tyre fitted, bearings greased, strut seals replaced, and a general check of all critical components completed.
At midday UGD was rolled out of the hangar and an engine run completed and suction and AH and DG gauges checked following new vacuum pump.
We topped up the tanks, and took off into a brisk northerly and departed over the top for home.
Low cloud and several showers kept us below 3000’ but the ground speed was impressive, exceeding 130kts for quite a while.
Just East YHSM
Cairn Curren
I used discretion and crossed the Pyrenees at the Northern end due to low cloud over the ‘gap’ near Summerfield.
Back on track, and despite cloud cover we were soon back on track, over YMBU, as usual with ‘nobody home’.
What a waste of a superb airfield!
Of course we had to divert slightly to circle home and let Heather know we were back at last, and the plumbers home next door.
Faraday has never looked so good!
Almost home...
Inbound to YKTN, and landed on 36 right on 2pm, just as Amy from the local paper was arriving for a photo and a bit of a story.
As I vacated the runway, I announced to myself-- ‘the UGlyDuckling has landed’.

And so ends an extraordinary forty-day adventure, the highlights of which are so many it will take some time to analyze and summarize it all.







        























































 He won the argument however and hence it required a fifty mine diversion