Can we trust this bloke????
Yes, we DID make it over to the pub, how could I resist bangers and mash with onion gravy for twelve bucks. The local football club had taken over the place so we didn't dally, and returned to our half-star accommodation for an early night. Up early and the plumber resisted the sausage and egg McHungry Jacks next door. I needed a source of sustenance however.
The motel proprietor didn't feel obliged to drive us out to the airfield so it was a sixteen buck taxi ride.
Fuelled up and noticed the left wing tank took a couple of litres extra. Checked the fuel drain, it must have been dribbling with a blue stain extending back a bit from the drain valve. Tony Brand was wandering about looking for an excuse not to go to church, so I chewed his ear; we re-drained that point a couple of times and it seemed to seal properly. Possibly a speck of crap under the seal.
In the air at 1100 and climbed to 6,500 above scattered Cu all the way to Renmark. The F/O was at the steering wheel on this leg and is still boasting that we averaged over 115 Kts till I took over above Renmark. Decided we didn't need a bladder break so overflew the airfield and continued on for Port Pirie. This required a more Westerly heading and hence the ground speed dropped off to about 95Kts, and descending through a hole to about 4000 for the rest of the trip. Changing countryside all the way and as the coast of Spencers Gulf came into view, I descended over the Southern Flinders ranges for a reasonable landing. On re-fueling we confirmed the fuel drain point was fine!! We have booked into the Port Pirie Aero Clubrooms, five star and very reasonably priced. TV, comfortable couches,
reverse cycle heating, all mod cons, and a fridge full of sandwiches etc to toast. All it takes is a donation to their local charity--Make a Wish--which of course we will totally respect.
Des Pitts and I camped here two years ago on our flight from Lord Howe Island to Dirk Hartog Island.
Tomorrow we will head off to Leigh Creek for a fuel stop, then to Oodnadatta for the night.
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| Near Lake Hindmarsh--Ready to make black pudding |
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| Ready to climb on top |
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| I think they call this a 'selfie' oh dear!! |
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| On top, smooth, 6,500, plenty of holes |
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| Over Renmark and the mighty Murray |
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| Flinders Ranges behind theUGlyDuckling |
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| As above, can almost smell the outback from here!! |
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The pyjamas will be discarded tomorrow
A great sleep on my couch in the clubhouse after toasted ham and cheese sandwiches for dinner; Terrys' snoring in the distance barely audible. Had the reverse cycle on high all night, apparently it was two degrees the previous night here.
Up as six, and for a change had toasted cheese and ham sangas and coffee for breakfast.
The bank Aero Commander landed about seven am and the girlie driving it rushed in to 'go' just as the plumber had comprehensively polluted the FEMALE dunnie. She was quite decent about it although obviously perplexed.
As the fumes subsided we packed up and left this fine motel, and out into the UGlyDuckling. In the air, and followed the edge of Spencers Gulf for a while, then the Flinders Ranges all the way to Leigh Creek. Green rugged hills most of the way, with lots of coal pits near YLEC. Fueled here, $2.52/litre, not bad.
Then on towards William Creek at 6,500. Crossed the very bottom estuary of Lake Ayer South, even ten nauticals across here, still has quite a few puddles of water along with a lot of salt drying out.
Decided to overfly William Creek for Oodnadatta, and continue on to the 'arsehole of South Australia' (Their name for it, not mine).
It had been a long day, just over 400 nauticals and we needed a beer, a bunk and fuel in that order. Conned a ride into 'town' and booked into our donga behind the Pink Roadhouse. The flies here have to be seen to be believed--as it the place itself!!!..As the sun sets the flies go to bed and the mozies start their overnight shift. Pretty early to bed, at 7.50 a can it is better to retire gracefully.
Tomorrow we head off for Ayers Rock direct, 280 Nm, refuel, do the scenic flight round the rock and the Olgas in a set figure of eight pattern at 4000, and then head off to Curtin Springs homestead for the night.
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| Over the Flinders Ranges |
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| Very edge of Lake Ayer South |
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| Approach to Oodnadatta |
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| Pink Roadhouse |
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| Only connection with the outside world |
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| Centre of everything |
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| Road conditions |
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| The fence |
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| Fuel at YOOD $3.00/l |
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| The Hilton YOOD |
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YOOD Central
A long but smooth flight to Ayers Rock. Mount Connor, which is on Curtin Springs station, is THREE times as big in area than the ‘rock, and only a couple of feet less in height. To our surprise Connor came into view 136nm from Ayers Rock, and the rock itself at 100nm. Not much traffic inbound, other than choppers doing joy flights, and landed at YAYE about 3pm local. The Shell Avgas pump kept stopping and starting, which waisted a bit of time. Then we did the tourist flight in UGD—outbound climbing to 4,500, inbound the rock, outbound the rock, inbound the Olgas, with lots of choppers at about 2000 feet below. Then departed direct for Curtin Springs, a further 47nm. As instructed, we overflew the homestead down low with full power on, then out to the airfield a couple of miles away, across the Lassester Highway.
Lindi, the bosses wife, (no, that THAT Lindi) came out to get us on a quad bike!!!—all the 4wd’s were out. Somehow we all got on board for the ride back.
A very interesting place, very busy with 'stray gonads' in the free camping grounds, plus lots of station accommodation.
A great dinner of their local beef, a couple of beers and lots of stories from the owners, including Peter Severin who started up here in 1956. Only a hobby farm I guess—1,608 square miles, 1,028,960 acres!! They run mainly Murray Grey cattle, have no time for Brahman as they are too rough on fences.
We have decided to have a day of leisure here tomorrow, and will fly to Alice for fuel on Thursday, then on to Tennant Creek for the night.
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| 100nm out!! |
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| Cleared for rwy 13 Connellon |
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| On our scenic bit--a big rock from close up! |
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| Just under the wing--can't overfly the 'settlement' south of the rock!!????? |
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| Scenic, the Olgas from 4000 |
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| Sure are big boulders |
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Off to Curtin Springs, 47nm
At least ten staff members doing various jobs, they are all young ‘work experience’ tourists/backpackers travelling the world.
Had a good yarn with Peter and his son Ashliegh. They are very proud that they have the ONLY liquor licence in Australia which PROHIBITS them serving the indigenous. Welcome to Country!!
This may seem racist, but one needs to visit the real outback and form a personal opinion. Having flown extensively throughout the outback, we have.
Late in the afternoon, a bus rolled over with a load of tourists, and this created great interest. It was still on Curtin Springs, about 8Km from the homestead. They were all returned here to be checked out by some medical crew from Ayers Rock; fortunately no one seriously hurt.
Peter told us about how the young cattle born on the station get their ‘water’ from grazing on a succulent pig face-type ‘grass’, and when they are yarded don’t know how to drink from a trough!!
An extraordinary place, living out here would be both a challenge and a unique experience.
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| View from Curtin Springs, Mt Connor on horizon |
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| Touries and buses all day |
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| The Bough Shed--our restruarant |
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| No such thing as a free lunch, but twice as dear at the bloody rock!! |
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| I can relate to that |
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| Take your pick!! |
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| More of above |
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| Front again |
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| Bore water, so plenty of lawn |
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| Ditto |
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| Sound advice |
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| Yep, they're fair dinkun about shirts. |
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| Current generation boss!! |
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| Tucka time |
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| Road train of camels--why bother, they're everywhere |
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| View of Mount Connor from front of the homestead--3 times bigger area than 'the rock' |
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| Front of Curtin Springs public area, fuel etc. |
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| Bar and shop never closed |
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| Peter the original boss, behind the pregnant bloke in foreground |
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| Out front again |
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| Handsome bloke outside our cabin |
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Not many at 8.50 each !!!!
After a bushmans breakfast of sausages, eggs bacon and tomato, we got a ride out to the airstrip at 1000 with Peter in his old M/Benz.
Thorough daily inspection, for a long flight today—150nm to Alice Springs for fuel, then 250nm on to Tennant Creek, and it will be getting pretty warm.
The LSA Savannah?? has been sitting here for a couple of years since Ashleigh ‘relinquished’ his licence—would need a good service but would be a cheap aircraft for anyone able to get it somewhere to tidy up (folding wings, so perhaps a stray gonads trailer?)
Took off towards Mount Conner on their v-e-r-y- long strip, turned and headed for Alice.
The country out here is very hungry but forever changing. At ground level you only see the saltbush each side of the track, but up here it’s a different and ever changing world.
Undulating hills, ridges, sand and scrub; occasional waterholes, and way, way outback stations, all with their airstrips.
And the inevitable trails of dust from the 4wds slogging it out far below. Alice Approach were friendly and cleared us in between a couple of Dash 8’s, and to the GA parking for fuel.
Time for a quick nature stop, topped up our water bottles and in the air again for Tennant Creek.
Very bumpy down low, elevation over 1600 and 30 degrees on the ground, so a lot of runway and slow climbing to 6500 where things are usually very smooth.
We shared shifts at the wheel on this leg, only getting 100Kts most of the way, and Tennant Creek came into view after a bit over two and a half hours.
Even tiny outback towns like Tennant Creek have massive long sealed runways; only one other a/c there when we landed, plus a chopper bloke doing some maintenance.
Booked into a nice motel room at the Goldfields Hotel, aircon and very comfortable.
This is Heathers’ former home town, so a bit nostalgic as we both flew in once, years ago. I will have a good look around in the morning.
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| Pre-Flight Curtin Springs |
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| Needs someone to love it |
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| Take off roll Curtin Springs, Mt Connor to right |
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| Climbing out |
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| Alice fuel stop, Quantie taking off |
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| Fuel Alice, Tower behind |
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| Massive 'ridge' north of Alice |
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| The other pub, Tennant Creek |
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| Our motel, Goldfields Hotel Tennant Creek |
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| Terminal Tennant Creek |
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| Tied Down Tennant Creek |
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| Our Motel room |
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| Goldfields pub and street view |
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| Ditto Tennant Creet |
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| Breakfast, cafe on right |
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| Our Motel, Tennant Creek |
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The pig-face stuff cattle eat, Curtin Springs
Had a good breakfast in a local café and a waddle round Heathers’ old town. Her Dad was a mining engineer here and her parents ran a large store, which was burned down. And it WASN’T a Jewish stock take either.
Tennant Creek seems to have improved quite a bit since Heather and I landed here in theUGlyDuckling about 15 years ago.
There is still however, the perennial issue with the locals. Total population 3,000 including 37 police!! Those eligible in addition to the usual ‘allowance’ can also claim $30 per month for dog food!!—the dogs look so skinny, perhaps that buys a slab instead. There are also fifteen assistance organisations in town, each funded to the tune of $30,000 per week. Our Government has lots to answer for, I doubt these costs will help reduce the budget deficit---‘give a bloke a fish and he’s fed for a day, teach him how to fish------‘
The pub owner took us to the airfield, we packed up and took off for Daly waters, 207nm. We drove half way each while the other had a nod. Over thirty degrees on the ground and it took 25nm to climb to 6,500. Still a bit rough, so up to 8,500 and that will be cruise altitude from now on.
Then a smooth flight all the way to Daly Waters. About half way passed over ELLIOTT (Great name but wrong spelling) Nothing much there, but a long runway parallel to the Stuart Highway, and near Lake Woods, 30nm across!!
Buzzed the Daly Waters pub TWICE, but still no transport came out. Fortunately Terrys’ phone had reception and we eventually got our ride to ‘town’.
Stayed in a twin cabin, and the usual ‘beef and barra’ for dinner, and watched the floor show with a cool ale.
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| The Rural City of Elliott |
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| Stray Gonads park Daly Waters |
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| As above |
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| Coober Pedy to Darwin by bike!! |
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| Daly Waters bar |
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| Bad landing!! |
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| Cruise Altitude |
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| Even marked on Oz Runways on iPad |
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| All electric |
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| Floor show |
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We had parked in the hangar, and let the oil drain overnight. So when the fuel bloke took us out to the massive WW2 strip, Terry cleaned up the nose spat and closed the drain tap and we added seven litres of new oil. It was over thirty degrees on the ground and took a long climb for the air temp to drop to a comfortable level.
As Daly Waters is virtually inside Tindal D210, I was keen to contact Brisbane centre to check it was not active.
Tried to call at 2000, 3000, 4000 and 5000 feet, and finally made contact at over six thousand. By then we were 50nm north, tracking directly over Tindal.
Fortunately the RAAF boys don’t get to play with their toys on Sundays and it was not active.
And so we kept climbing, and tracked over Tindal on the local CTAF at 8,500 in still, cool air and on towards Darwin.
I waived to Air Vice Marshall Mel Hupfeld (now Air Commander Australia)—the son of a C172 and Victa friend of Gleesos’ and mine—not much point name dropping, but proud Dad Peter is probably reading this blog!!
A hundreds miles out we struck the usual smoke from the natives burning off--it rises to 8000+feet. But this burning is for a valid reason—to encourage re-growth for the native animals to come in to be hunted for food. There are many out here who still live the traditional life—what a pleasant contrast.
The smoke haze became intense and we were down to 2000 flying VFR in near IMC.
Darwin approach gave us a transponder code, and cleared us for a visual approach at 4000, and when we had the runway in sight were cleared straight in on 36.
We are staying at the Mantra on the 8th floor, with Terry’s daughter—much flasher than some of our previous digs!!
A lay day tomorrow, then tackle Customs etc on Monday to try and get permission to fly out from a non-international airport in a few days.
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| Edith Falls, north of Catherine |
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| Burning off |
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| Ditto |
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| Down low for a bit of an horizon |
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| Ditto |
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| Almost IMC |
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| 4000, 20nm out |
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Now, turn west to the field I think!! Beautiful bay.
Couldn't find the Synagogue or the Mosque, so after a late breakfast I spent some time trying to bring this blog up to date.
This place certainly 'rocks' (an ancient term from my own youth); there are more back-packers here than I've seen anywhere else in Australia.
From almost any country one could name. And they all seem to get pretty thirsty, even on the Sabbath. The Schinnigans Pub in Mitchell Street is packed all day, as are the other pubs and backpacker hostels.
The above named pub, the most popular with the travellers has three bouncers on duty all day.
It seems these young folk get so thirsty then tend to loose their balance pretty constantly, and often their lunch or dinner also.
I guess it has something to do with the bloody hot weather and their unfamiliarity with our local beer, which they down very rapidly, so it doesn't get warm.
From our eighth story window we can look down on them all, not with disdain but fond memories. And when we join them at 'seniors' drink o'clock, they accept us readily.
Way below our window I can also look in to the pool of the Youth Shack backpackers, where John Livsey and I stayed just over two years ago. RIP John, its a year this month since you left us.
After a good rest in our air conditioned room, I ventured down for a couple of beers at six o'clock, as you do. It was 'happy hour' and pots were $3 each, a bit better that 8.50 at Curtin Springs.
Then to a great sidewalk Indian Restaurant for a nice hot curry; bloody hot in fact, but thats how I love them. Think I'll go back there for goat curry tomorrow--(good ethnic stuff Gleeso)
An early night, ahead of some serious negotiations tomorrow.
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Our shack
Monday 12th May
Norm E. directed me to that area of the dreaded AIP which deals with departing/arriving on an international flight at a non-international airport. And what a can of worms than opens. Basically, it is not possible, but then if nothing is; it just gets a bit harder.
Off to YPDN airport with passports to talk to Customs and Immigration. (This had already been going on for over a month by email and G.A.Bell).
Basically we would like to be cleared at Darwin with passports stamped, go through the usual passenger x-ray thing, and then fly to Kalumburu which is the closest point in WA to Kupang, Indonesia, stay overnight there on what they call a ‘Technical Stop', and the next day to Kupang (303nm). Why?—because Dili has NO avgas so if we fly direct YPDN to Dili we would be a ‘bit short’ on fuel for the return flight (393nm).
The alternative would be direct YPDN to Kupang, 446nm—not as far as Norfolk to Lord Howe but a bit of a stretch on ageing bladders, and a bit lacking in alternates!!
SO—our discussions with Customs and Border Control were getting nowhere until we suggested they would have a file of correspondence from me, and at last we got to see the head bloke.
He was aware of our previous requests and before long we left with numerous forms to fill out, and a tentative ‘yes, no problems’—we could fly to Kalumburu, stay overnight, re-fuel and off on Thursday to Kupang.
Plenty of avgas at Kupang, a tank full would get us to Dili for a couple of days, then back to Kupang, refuel, and back to Kalumburu.
So we left there on a real high—it will happen!!
And as a further bonus, we had a coffee and sausage roll in the terminal, and as I was wearing that stupid $200 ASIC thing, I got a dollar discount without even asking!!! Wow, the ASIC DOES have a use after all, only 199 further purchases and it will have paid for itself!!
I also called at Hardy Aviation and a nice jockey there printed me off some great approach plates for Kupang, and insisted our first port of call there should be Teddies Bar!! How helpful the local pilots are.
Back at the Mantra, emails awaited me—we still didn’t have the nod from Quarantine to return to a non-international port. We could be bringing in AIDS, dogs with rabies, grass skirts and other dreaded things to fuck up the country. Yes, we could spray the aircraft as required, but that would not fulfil their childish requirements.
Then a call from a nice bloke in Canberra, followed by an email with forms to fill out, which have now been sent and we anxiously await a reply.
In the unlikely event they OK us, we will return Kupang (WATT) to YKAL as planned. Or else, WATT to YPDN direct (443nm), or somehow get some avgas to Dili and return from there to YPDN (393nm).
We await with foetid breath—but WILL be flying to YKAL tomorrow to depart for WATT on Thursday.
Watch this space, thought we won’t have phone/www at YKAL.
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| Darwin Derro |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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WTF??
Tues 13th May
A further visit to Customs and Border Protection with appropriate forms filled has cleared us out tomorrow. Just need to get to the airport at about 7am, have passports stamped and put in a flight plan to Kupang via a tech stop as above at YKAL.
Andrew Wallace has fitted a new landing light globe for us at the GA parking area, a great favour, as it shit itself at Daly Waters and the Indons will possibly want a headlight on when we approach tomorrow.
A second trip back to the airport to confirm details for tomorrow. We had a snack and coffee there and I got a FURTHER $1.80 discount--these ASICS are BRILLIANT!!
And later, a couple of coldies and a nice counter meal at Shenanigans pub, and an early night. A big day tomorrow!!
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| Assistance for the dissabled |
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And so he should!!!
Who needs Laxettes? Just try and LEAVE Oz and the crap will flow without even extending a muscle. Check out the following exchange, in reverse order of course:--
Dear Mr ElliotI am writing to you in relation to your proposed flights between Kalumburu and Kupang City which we have previously discussed in a number of emails.
National Passenger Processing Committee (NPPC) has previously provided guidance on your proposed flights based on the advice that you intend to internationally depart from and arrive back into Darwin International Airport stopping in Kalumburu for a technical stop only. An agreed Australian Customs and Border Protection Service (ACBPS) definition for a technical stop is a scheduled landing (stop) for refuelling purposes. A technical stop does not involve temporary embarkation or disembarkation of passengers, cargo or mail.
NPPC has received your proposed itinerary yesterday afternoon and understands that your international trip to Kupang City and back includes the following sectors.
Departure:
Wednesday 14 May 2014
Depart Darwin (undergo border clearance formalities)
Arrive Kalumburu for fuel
Thursday 15 May 2014
Depart Kalumburu
Arrive Kupang City
Arrival:
Tuesday 20 May
Depart Kupang City
Arrive Kalumburu for fuel
Wednesday 21 May 2014
Depart Kalumburu
Arrive Darwin (undergo border clearance formalities)
While the plane is on the ground during the technical stop, it is monitored by the local Law Enforcement authorities in Kalumburu. Those Authorities are not resourced to monitor the plane for more than 2 hour. As such ACBPS is not able to agree to your request for an extended technical stop.
In principle you may consider making an application to the NPPC for a departure and arrival at Kalumburu (NPPC Application attached). However I would like to inform you that it is unlikely that the NPPC will be able to support the application due insufficient resources and infrastructure available to complete border processing formalities and address Biosecurity risks, including the management of quarantine waste. I ask you to consider alternative routes through existing major international airports including Darwin or enter Restricted Use International Airports such as Townsville, Port Hedland or Broome for the clearance of travellers and cargo.
Please contact me if you wish to discuss this further.
Anna Vavrina - Kun
Flight Requests for Non-international Airports |
Australian Customs and Border Protection Service |
For NATIONAL PASSENGER PROCESSING COMMITTEE |
5 Constitution Avenue CANBERRA CITY 2601 |
Phone +61 2 6246 1210 Fax +61 2 6275 6989From: Alan J. ELLIOT [mailto:minto172@bigpond.com]
Sent: Monday, 12 May 2014 10:06 AM
To: National Passenger Processing Committee
Subject: Re: Private Flight from non-international airport [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Thank you for your assistance. We are in Darwin now, and will visit Customs and Border Protection today.
Kind regards,
Alan Elliot
On 12/05/14 9:05 AM, "National Passenger Processing Committee" <NationalPassengerProcessingCommittee@customs.gov.au> wrote:
Dear Mr Elliot
It seems that Darwin Airport Australian Customs and Border Protection will be able to help you further with you request. Please call Darwin Airport staff at 08 8920 2551 to make the final arrangements.
Kind Regards
Anna Vavrina - Kun | Passenger Facilitation |
Business Improvement Section, Trade and Customs Division
Australian Customs and Border Protection Service
Ph: (02) 6275 6686 | Fax: 02 6275 6989 | anna.vavrina-kun@customs.gov.au
www.customs.gov.au <http://www.customs.gov.au> <http://www.customs.gov.au/>From: Alan J. ELLIOT [mailto:minto172@bigpond.com]
Sent: Friday, 2 May 2014 11:57 AM
To: National Passenger Processing Committee
Subject: Re: Private Flight from non-international airport [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Thanks for the response.
Details are: Alan John ELLIOT 1st November 1941
Terence John COLLINS 27th December 1953
Kind regards,
Alan J. Elliot
On 2/05/14 11:08 AM, "National Passenger Processing Committee" <NationalPassengerProcessingCommittee@customs.gov.au> wrote:
Dear Mr Elliot
NPPC has received your email and have been negotiating the possibility of your proposed flight with the ACBPS staff in Darwin Airport.
I have been asked this morning if I could provide your and Mr Collin’s dates of birth to assist with a decision.
Please forward these details to me as soon as possible.
Kind Regards
Anna Vavrina - Kun | Passenger Facilitation |
Business Improvement Section, Trade and Customs Division
Australian Customs and Border Protection Service
Ph: (02) 6275 6686 | Fax: 02 6275 6989 | anna.vavrina-kun@customs.gov.au
www.customs.gov.au <http://www.customs.gov.au> <http://www.customs.gov.au> <http://www.customs.gov.au/>From: Alan J. ELLIOT [mailto:minto172@bigpond.com]
Sent: Friday, 2 May 2014 10:08 AM
To: National Passenger Processing Committee
Subject: FW: Private Flight from non-international airport
I received an ‘automated’ reply from this address, was my email (below) received??
Regards,
Alan Elliot
------ Forwarded Message
From: "Alan J. ELLIOT" <minto172@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2014 14:55:57 +1000
To: <nppc@customs.gov.au>
Conversation: Private Flight from non-international airport
Subject: Private Flight from non-international airport
National Passenger Processing Committee,
Attn Michael Kennealy
Dear Sir,
Further to my phone call the following are details of my request:
I wish to undertake an private international flight to Kupang, Indonesian West Timor, as part of a flying adventure from Kyneton Victoria.
My initial plan was to fly to Darwin, fulfill customs etc requirements, and fly direct to Dili, Timor Leste. After conflicting information regarding fuel supplies at Dili, I have confirmed that there is no avgas available there. To fly direct from Darwin to Kupang is 446nm and whilst within the range of my C172, is not leaving much reserve in case of diversions for weather or adverse wind conditions.
Hence, I would much prefer if possible, to clear customs etc at Darwin, then fly further west to depart from Kalamburu after refueling. (Kalambura to Kupang 301nm)
I would much appreciate your advice, my details are as follows:
Aircraft: Cessna172M VH-UGD
Pilot: Alan Elliot (self) ARN 405019 Calder Hwy Faraday 3451 Vic
Passenger: Terry Collins (friend) Faradale Drive Faraday 3451 Vic
I have owned this aircraft for just on thirty years, and have over 2,500 hours in command, including overwater flights to Lord Howe, Norfolk Island, Boigu Island, and numerous Bass Strait crossings.
I hold a current medical, ASIC and recent AFR. We both have current Australian passports.
Departing Kyneton 3rd May (next Saturday), I would expect to arrive Darwin around 12th May, departing Darwin around 15th May.
Kind regards,
Alan Elliot
0417373950
And so at the 11th hour, things have turned upside down. I called the above Anna Vanwank-Kun*, and told her to forget about an overnight stop at Kalumburu, we would leave here at sparrows tomorrow, fly direct to there (YKAL), fuel, pissour, and then on th Kupang (WATT). I guess the abs will have to check our pee for pH and sugar to satisfy biosecurity.
A.V-K* can also stick the return tech stop at YKAL wherever it thrills most, we will get drums of AVGAS transported to Dili, as a further request to get some from MAF again proved fruitless.
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| Great tucka in the food court on right |
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| Airport somewhere over horizon |
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| The offending blown globe |
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Andrew at work
Up at 6am at the Mantra Darwin, a quick coffee, packed up and off to the airport. To Customs, Border Control and Quarantine for our clearances from Darwin to Kalumburu for a ‘technical stop’ to refuel, and then on direct to Kupang. This only took a few minutes, then out to theUGlyDuckling via Hardy Aviation to the GA parking area.
Pre-flighted, obtained a clearance to depart on rwy 36, turn right, track direct initially 1000. About 12 miles out, ‘resume own navigation, contact Bris. Centre’.
Headed straight out across the gulf, slow climb to between 7 and 8000 for a smooth flight to YKAL in beautiful clear skies and a decent tail wind.
This is great flying, I love it. The sea looks as smooth as silk and we didn’t see one boat or oil rig all the way. The plumber remarked that ‘the scenery round here doesn’t change much, does it!’
I guess he was right, but it sure changed a couple of hours later as we approached to land at YKAL. The massive Edward River gorge cuts a swathe through the rugged Kimberley landscape and on decent the turbulence was significant, with about a 20Kt breeze blowing all over the place, and the runway a long sealed affair that slopes considerably downwards to the South—our landing direction. Very difficult to put her down but the plumber was generous in his score of 8+.
‘Kalumburu is Western Australia's most remote and isolated community. It is located at the very northern tip of the State near the mouth of the King Edward River. It is cut off by road for 5-7 months per year depending on the length of the wet season and is only accessible by air and barge (from Darwin) It has an indigenous population of 350 persons, of whom more than 50% are under 16 years, plus about 35 non-indigenous persons who work in the school, health clinic, mission, community store and Corporation office.…Google 101’
Had overlooked the time difference of WA and hence on landing there 10am WA time, had ordered fuel from the ‘community’ for midday!!. Before long a guy arrived in an aircon new Landcruiser from the mission and gave us a ride into ‘town’.
Then summonsed Michael, originally from Bendigo, but busting his guts to get out of this hole in September. Mike carted us out with drums of avgas on a trailer behind a modern John Deere tractor—these ‘communities’ don’t just have ‘ole grey Fergies and Holden ‘utes!!.
Terry took the usual few illegal photos, and we were soon on our way across the Timor sea. Contacted Bris centre again as soon as they could hear us at about 7000, gave them full details and intentions and at ETA for Kupang.
Half way across we lost Bris, and tuned up el Tari approach, which gradually came in but unreadable about 100nm out.
Fifty miles out their NBD almost came in, and we could now hear fluent Indon on the approach frequency, English being the universal language of aviation, of course!
After several attempts they half-understood us (and visa-versa) at 20nm and we were instructed to descend and maintain 4000. At 10nm it was down to 1000 and with great difficulty we were ‘cleared’ to land on 07.
As we rolled to exit taxiway Alpha as instructed, we shook hands and muttered ‘look out Teddy’s Bar, here we come’.
Now shit and fans have an almost universal and enduring affinity, and we were about to be arranged directly under the latter, being inundated with a constant downpour of the former.
We taxied in to a local official waving table tennis bats wildly in the usual fashion, stopped on demand and waited.
He obviously thought we were very important guests as he parked us right next to a bloody Garruda A320 which was about to be pushed back with its arse pointed directly our way as the power came on to blow us into oblivion with its jet blast.
He then invited us to disembark and with five assistants who had all arrived to welcome us, proceeded to empty our bags onto the runway, and to remove everything from inside the aircraft.
As we looked on in the 38 degree heat, both just busting for a pee, our bags were comprehensively emptied. Disappointed at finding nothing of particular interest, out came all our in-flight junk. Half empty water bottles, used Kleenex, life jackets we had been wearing, tie down ropes and pegs, a spare tyre that they shook the shit out of, looking for contraband I assume, several packets of muesli bars that were shared out with enthusiasm, windshield cleaning spray and rags, fuel drain cups and a 1985 ERC low from somewhere under the seats!
We were then invited to visit their office were we were offered bottled water from the fridge and a seat on those plastic chairs that can just accommodate their skinny arses.
Who is your handler? Where is your documentation to land at el Tari? Why do you fly to Indonesia?—business, visit family, see nice place, etc etc.
Our official Australian Certificate of Clearance and General Declaration filled out in detail and stamped by Customs and Border Protection Service in Darwin at 06:22 am this morning were studied in great detail by everyone present.
We were advised we must remain until Customs Officers came from Kupang City some 20Km away.
We were finally allowed to walk some distance for a supervised pee, and then back to their pox ridden office, to wait. And wait!
We had landed at 2:50pm and it was 6pm and pitch dark when Customs arrived in full uniform.
More questions and at about 8pm it was suggested our aircraft could be blown away by jet blast, and I was instructed to start up and follow two ‘Follow Me’ trucks, back onto, and right along the active runway, then up a sealed taxiway to a big air force hangar complex.
Dozens of people took photos there, which we expect to see in tomorrows paper!!
Thank khryst for the new landing light globe, and I just hope I did turn off the master switch before they sealed the doors with foot square official seals.
So now theUGlyDuckling is impounded and our passports have been taken away. More interviews, and then we were driven for about an hour, to be interviewed again at Customs in the city.
Somewhere along the way, they suggested we should have a meal before our interviews, and we eventually pulled into a flash open air restaurant and were seated as a happy little group of friends.
Out came the menus for all to choose from, and the boss bloke also asked what we’d like to drink from the list. None of them ordered Bintang which would have been the sensible thing, so we went along with their choices, and ordered sickly sweet cans of soft drink.
They were in fact decent hosts, even offering cigarettes all round, which we ever so politely refused.
Their English was sort of reasonable, and we both settled for BBQ’s fish, which turned out to be superb! With no local money yet, how would we pay for this meal??—“No problem, it’s on the house”.
What a pity we had the impending interview at Customs hanging over our heads.
Then off to Customs head office somewhere in town, by this time it was about ten pm.
We sat and waited while they asked the same questions over and over again, and then slowly typed out their questions and my answers, as a record of interview. In Indon of course.
Further waiting whilst they attempted to translate the interview into English for me to sign. This seemed to take forever, why they didn’t just press the ‘Google Translate’ button is beyond me.
As we waited we were again offered cigarettes and cool bottles of water. At about 11:30 pm local time it was over—there would be a hefty fine, I would need to contact our embassy in Jakarta to sort out a permit to enter Indon airspace—a flight approval and a security clearance.
Isn’t it wonderful how neighboring countries are so co-operative. Fuck you Tony!!!
We were finally driven back to the T-More hotel (their choice, not ours), and reminded not to leave the hotel. One of their lot also booked in for the night!!!!
I guess that would be some sort of ‘house arrest’ and we were off to bed just after midnight. We had been up since 6am and it was now the equivalent of 2am Darwin time!!
What will tomorrow bring in this idyllic country!!??
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| Departing Darwin |
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| Approach YKAL |
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| Ditto |
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| Edwards Canyon |
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| Ditto |
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| Well kept sign |
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| Bloody hot--all we needed was WATER |
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| YKAL mission |
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| Ditto |
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| Rock with plaque |
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| T/Off YKAL - WATT 303nm to run |
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| House arrest, just outside for a second!! |
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Doesn't the released dove stand for peace and goodwill??? Near our pub!!
| Had a good sleep after a Bintang sedative, up early and down to breakfast for a good feed of potential bowel trouble at 7am. |
At 9am our ‘free’ taxi arrived with the Airfield Duty Officer in full uniform to drive us to the Immigration Office , after checking we hadn’t been out for a night on the town. Immigration is about an hour away, so a real scenic drive. The same questions we have had a dozen times—why you fly to Indonesia, happy family, nice place to visit, business startup, etc etc ???.
This time we also meet with the head honcho—HE has our passports, so after several more forms and similar questions, it was suggested we contact the Australian Embassy in Jakarta. A great idea—we have no mobile phones, so Skype is getting a pounding.
Contacted Domonic Smith at our embassy and he has been great. Took our hotel number, my email which I can receive but not reply to, and offered to update us regularly and contact families if we wished. Both of us have Skyped our families daily.
The Australian embassy had already heard a little about our plight, and keep contacting officials, and have got us a list of ‘agents’ who for a fee could produce the appropriate clandestine forms—to be stamped by Immigration, Customs AND the fucking Military!!
All the time however, the brass were very friendly to us, constantly shaking hands and greeting us.
Perhaps we were gaining a little of their trust and respect and of course I have NEVER sucked so many bloody eggs. Up to this time, we have had constant companionship, so it hasn’t been possible to take photos in their presence.
I’m sure the hotel staff are getting to know our problems, they had to be shown our passports by an official for us to check in, they seem quite sorry for us.
Eventually to bed after more dubious intestinal potential trouble, and they will pick us up again in the morning for a bit more fun.
Bugger all photos to publish, we are never alone outside yet!!
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| Taken from our 'Staff Car'--Scaffolding ready to erect--no OH&S here |
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| Motorbike park near our pub |
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| Ditto |
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One of our 'free' escorts
Surely Saturday is play day in Kupang, but it was not to be. Just after breakfast, our room phone rang and this time is was another ‘Lord of the Wankers’, from the Ministry of Transport. Two of them met us in full uniform—oh, do they love uniforms and stripes and badges!! Also, the Director General of Aviation and his lapdog were flying in from BALI for a grand ‘board meeting’ with us. This took almost all day!!! We were seated in posh teak chairs, Customs, Immigration, Aviation, Police, the lot!!
The lapdog had a projector set up and as we all sat round this grand table, he put up details of all the fines and charges. And there were many, some of which were later ‘adjusted’.
About 10am I was busting for a piss—this time allowed to go unescorted!!
As I returned a ‘waiter’ came in and presented us all with pretty boxes—each containing a couple of stale buns sealed in cellophane, plus a bottle of water!! Lunch I guess.
The meeting went on and on. At about 5pm the two tossers from Bali had to catch their return flight. (The first of two return flights Bali-Kupang-Bali)—just for US!!
It was dark as we ended the board meeting, but I asked if we could ‘go into town’. They seemed to think we could now, but I Skyped Domonic and he phoned their leader, and emailed me back to say we could!!!—WOW—Saturday night at Teddys Bar!!
Taxi to Teddys bar about 50,000 ‘minglebars’—(say) $5A. Now what a shell of its apparent former glory Teddys Bar is (google it).
Nothing much happening there, except a few remnant Australian misfits—a couple of dickheads caught up in marriages, divorces, the lot. A local insisted Terry buy a bottle of perfume—after about an hour he convinced him he’d rather smell of Bintang anyway.
Eric (alias Dr Spock—GREAT ears!!!)—asked us what were we doing in Kupang, suggested he knew a couple of heavies who would help us!!—sounded like bullshit to us!!, so we eventually shook him off, and left him to sort out his divorce.
However, the food was good, pretty safe, and the Bintang was reasonably cold after convincing them to put a bottle in an ice bucket. And I preferred a couple of shots of JW—the ONLY place in town that is supposed to have it!!
Then the bloody Moozies started their incessant wailing—on and on—so bloody discordant, Allah or whoever would turn in his grave. (However, not many Moozies here, and they don’t seem radical c/f Jakata)
We departed this home of misfits about 9pm back to the same hotel, but no longer under constant survellience!
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| Idi behind me, projector set up |
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| Official photo for criminal records, Bang Bang Who do you Know looking on!! |
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| Us, Karki and Smokey, note our Xmas boxes!! |
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| Idi thanking me for the big 'gift', Smokey |
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| Outside Imigrasi |
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| Locals having weekend out!! |
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| Coast, near Teddy's |
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| Kids collecting empty cans |
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| Onion rings and BBQ fresh Tuna, Teddys--great tucka and gentle on GI tract!! |
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Waiting for the jury
Surely a day of rest and peace in beautiful Kupang. But wait, more meetings, and an update on progress to get us out of here. They have nothing else to do, and this is their first case of a private a/c since one from Singapore flew into Aceh some months ago. So we are a great source of interest and an immense challenge for them all.
Now the plumber has given the cast names based on their positions etc.
The Airport Police are Karki and Komoto (gave us a book about the dragon), and Karki liked Terrys’ ‘sunnies’ so much he asked if he could have them—of course!! Karki had badges all over his chest—I admired one and asked—it was for being a paratrooper—a cheap plastic badge like kids get in Weeties packets. (Seems the ‘shute DID open!!!)
The Chief of Immigration is Pak Choy or Marcel Marceau ( names needed by us to talk in their presence to each other).
Head of Customs—Back Brace
Airport Duty Officer –Smokey (wanted to bot smokes we didn’t have)
Airport ground control—Batman (obvious I think)
Immigration Officers Idi (Head) and Skinny (Lapdog)---Idi became our friend—I guess a couple of return trips from Bali got him out of his office for a day or so.
Customs officer—a short, dumpy, fat prick—Bubba
House Arrest (stayed 1st night at our pub)—Hitler
And the best of the lot, and ultimately our best mate—Bono (originally from Borneo).—he chaired the major meetings, and allowed me to speak and thank them ever so humbly at the end of proceedings.
Hence, another full day in the board room, still no passports, and theUGlyDuckling still ‘sealed’ and in the airforce base.
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| More OH and S |
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| Scenic view from airport |
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| Bonos' fish pond |
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| Well kept roads |
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| Ditto |
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| Coastal view |
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Lapdog at work
Basically left alone today, tried to phone Bono re: progress, also Idi in Bali—both the numbers they gave us were invalid—even though they all seem to have at least three iPhones going all the time—except for poor Idi who has a real vintage mobile like mine. We had hoped things would be sorted today for us to fly out tomorrow.
Contacted Domonic again, he thinks we are still 'free' to look around.
So, for something to do, we went back down to Teddys just on dusk—a beautiful sunset, a good safe feed, and fucking Dr Spock was there but totally ignored us—so much for his help!! All the pics are from Terry’s camera, must make sure the iPad is safe for the trip to Dili and Darwin.
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| Ashi, our Timor Leste mate in Kupang who arranged cheap taxis for us-wishes he was back in Dili |
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| Ditto |
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| From Teddys |
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| Teddys |
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| Teddys--full of misfits, including us |
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| Misfit at Teddys |
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| Complimentary Chocolate box lunch |
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And the contents
Things are starting to look up! Domonic( Australian Embassy) has been in touch with the ‘crook’ Idi was dealing with, we now have two of the three stamps, but still needed the one from the Military!!!
So we just waited all day in Bonos’ flash office, and at lunchtime, he produced china plates with grilled chicken and rice—understanding bloke our Bono. Would have loved to souvenir one of the monogrammed plates, but perhaps not wise at this stage.
The third stanp didn’t come through before Idi’s flight back to Bali, so he stayed the night right near our hotel, and drove us back there. Nice bloke Idi!!
We should get the third stamp tomorrow, all ‘charges’ paid, then only need the fuel and we could be off in the morning.
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| El Tari 'interrogation room' |
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| A bit phased when we saw this accommodation next door to Immigration Office!! |
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| Oh! NO THANKS!!! |
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| Lovely country scene!! |
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Watched over by Bang Bang Who do you know, and his 2IC
Oh dear, still no stamp from the military—AND we can’t take off without it!! So we won't get our passports back until that stamp is on a triplicate form, they will try and have it in order and emailed for Idi, Bono and me to sign, hopefully today. However the Military seem to like us so much they are in no hurry to get rid of us, so we spent most of the day in Bono’s heavy leather chairs again surrounded by officials with nothing else to do.
Good 'ole Bono got us more chicken and rice, wrapped in greaseproof paper on those beautiful plates for lunch, and made sure we always had bottles of cold water, and could go to the bog unsupervised.
WTF do all these people do the rest of the time??? Time seems of no importance here, and it is a day to day existence for the masses.
Their little carts peddling ‘food’ of all kinds for a pittance, motorbikes everywhere, no obvious road rules, skinny dogs, and Terry even watched a cat trying to catch fish near Teddys’. But it will all come together, and we will be off in the morning—it should only take a few minutes to refuel, and Idi will have the ‘stamp’.
It's hard to get pictures in their presence, but I'll see what I can dig up!!
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| Allowed an evening trip to the 'supermarket' |
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| New tee-shirt coming up!! |
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| A few more Imigrasi friends |
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| The tele doesn't talk English, but good for drying socks and jocks |
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| Room service--emptying the Bintang Bin |
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Public transport Indon style
Is this our lucky day?? Picked up by good ole Bono and to his lounge to wait, and wait. About midday the form came through—even stamped by the Military. Took quite a while to work out how to print it. Then we were driven across the main runway again to check theUGlyDuckling. Watched by a cast of thousands, all in uniform and taking photos, the seals were partially taken off our doors and I started a thorough check. We should be out of here by 2pm—plenty of time to get to Dili before last light!!!!
And fortunately, I had NOT left the master switch on!!! Then to the fuel depot with Idi and Bono—heaps and heaps more forms, it was now 3pm and a drum of Avgas was about to be carted to our a/c.
Terry watched as they pumped into both wings, and then to their amusement into three 20 litre plastic drums from Bunnings Aerospace, Darwin. Filled with NO airspace.
I was then allowed to taxi behind a ‘follow me’ vehicle over to the general area—I say general as they have never had a single GA aircraft here!!!!
It is now nearly 4pm, and I explain it is too late to t/off to Dili—BUGGER!!!--First thing in the morning, now!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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| Stickers coming off (partially) |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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Ditto
After a full week in paradise, we will depart for Dili this morning. Out to airport early with our hotel courtesy vehicle, a short tearful meeting with Bono and Idi, then out to start up and talk to the tower.
Many happy snaps with us all as great mates, before we boarded and started up. Idi is such a nice guy he would like me to email him when I get back to Australia--and I will!!
Cleared to taxi and hold before runway as a Garruda A320 came in, then cleared to backtrack 07 and line up.
Even though their English is shithouse, those magic words ----‘UGD, Clear to Take off, Climb to 5000’, report passing 1000’ was music to our ears!!.
But we needed more than 8000 to clear the lumpy bits and it was a very slow climb, 45 to 50 Kts, and then about 90 Kts when we leveled out. The plumber took the pictures, we were at 9000 above towering Cu, then a blanket of RSA ahead. So I headed coastal and out a few miles, and contacted Comoro (Dili) approach/tower with distance and heading etc. We were chewing through more fuel than I'd hoped--it seems to always be a south easterly around the Timor sea this time of the year
Assistance from Comoro was fantastic, superb English, and we soon had the runway in sight for a straight in approach to runway 08.
Customs took no more than 30 seconds, then the guy who ‘cleared’ us ('Alex') drove us to our hotel, which is pretty basic, but has good aircon and a big open restaurant/ bar and pool.
A bit of a celebration, pizza for tea, and we slept like logs, even though it apparently rained heavily during the night.
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| They took happy snaps for us |
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| Plumber, dear 'ole Bono, TBS and Lapdog |
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| Idi also now on left--big hugs ad smiles |
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| Bye-Bye Kupang, city well behind the left wing |
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| Here comes the Cu |
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| Climbing through 7000 |
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| Best get coastal before this lot!! |
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| Not far now, and clear out here |
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| Straight in 08 |
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Beautiful Dili, North Air E170 far right
Up early as the plumber is off by boat to a small nearby island to snorkel. I will get a ride round the town then try and catch up on this blog a bit. We plan to stay here tonight and tomorrow night, and head for Darwin, weather permitting, on Monday. The UGlyDuckling is quite an eye catcher out at the airport—do they really make them that small???
A taxi into town to have a look around, and change $A into $US which they prefer, yet we get change in their centimos—100 = $1US. Taxis are either $1, $2, or $3 regardless of distance, and Dili is becoming a pretty big town.
There are many supermarkets springing up all over the ‘city’, no doubt it will be a popular place to visit in a few years. Plenty of NGO's and expats working here, businesses cropping up all over the place, new road works, heaps of bars and eateries, many serving superb food at reasonable prices.
And when I think what this place has gone through in the last fifty years or so, I really have to admire them all.
The boat back from the island was over an hour late due rough seas, and the plumber got back about 7pm.
We got a taxi to the Nautilus—a hangout for expats, but the driver had no idea where it was. Eventually got there and he wanted extra for driving round in circles.
A great meal at the Nautilus—seafood chowder for me, and very fresh. A popular spot overlooking the beach (if it wasn’t dark, which of course it was!)
Couldn’t hail a cab at 10pm, so the boss gave us a free ride back to our one star pub.
A massive modern Timor Plaza with every type of goods imaginable has sprung up in town, including superb REAL 'wog' gellatti--and they even make it with Devondale milk, Bianca!!!
I feel it deserves far more coverage as a holiday destination than we presently hear about it. Great friendly people, many who have been through hell.
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| On Atauro Island |
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| Chook sale--many tied up like this |
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| Wahu (Spanish Mackerel) great eating!! |
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| Atauro Island--about 20 miles out (North) |
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| Rowing out to attach rope to mooring buoy for ferry |
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| Ferry to island |
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| Passenger caught this Wahu on way back to Dili port |
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| Ah!!--wholesome food, made from my daughters dairy farm milk |
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| Outside terminal |
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| Memorial to President Nicolau Lobato, approaching airport |
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Our eatery at pub
Taxi into ‘town’ to the Timor Plaza, a great modern complex. I bought a $5 watch (Rolex I guess) with hands big enough for me to read without specs!!
Spent most of the afternoon in the pool/bar at our pub, in good spirits and looking forward to getting out in the morning.
Alex’s mate drove us to the airport to fuel up—hell we had used a lot more than expected from Kupang to Comoro. Topped up the 60 litres from our cargo hold (special D/Goods exemption), and then needed 15 litres of unleaded to top to pussies bow—even though told they DID have avgas until the Jet A1 truck arrived, and we told him not to worry.
Then back ‘home’ for a pizza and an early night ready for an early morning take off for Darwin.
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| Alex-our customs, taxi, etc |
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| Plenty of juice for this leg |
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| He LOVED this |
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| Memorial |
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| Ditto |
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| Ditto |
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| Every bit helps |
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| No, thanks for your trouble, but no thanks!! |
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Pool/Bar/Tucka place
Customs etc at Dili was a dream, and we took off at 8:30 local. With the very high granite clouds, I flew out to sea for a while to climb above Cu at 8000. Then over the island, still with tops sticking out, till we got over the ocean, when it was as clear as.
Asked us to call them on HF at 40nm; told Dili we were unable—no problems, Brisbane Centre will come in after about 200 miles!!!!
We did have a steady south easterly all the way, a couple of light showers, but the best flying is over that liquid stuff. Called Darwin approach at 50nm, again at 10nm at 3000, and cleared to land straight in on runway 11. “Confirm able to land and hold short of rwy 36” “AFFIRMATIVE”!!!!!!!!!!
Customs and Quarantine at Darwin came out to spray the aircraft and steal our last slice of pizza, take a couple of pics, and we were soon on our way back to Terrys’ daughters place at the Mantra.
An atom bomb wouldn’t have woken us!!! A few minutes short of 5 hours flying for the day, the strong south easterly didn't help or change, at any altitude!!
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| Climbing out of Dili |
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| Outlying villages |
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| Dili very Hilly |
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| ....and hilly |
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| Lumps at 8000 |
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| Leaving the coast--next stop Darwin!!!! |
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| Getting close, almost 95 Kts |
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| 50nm Darwin---- boat people?? |
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| Tip Bathurst Island |
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Two wankers on terra firma--Darwin GA Park, taken by bloke who stole our pizza!!
A full day of R & R in Darwin today . We eventually got down for breakfast at 11am!!!!!
Terry drove me out to Casurina shopping centre for new shoes, then cleaned up our junk and caught up with the blog a bit.
We will take Roisin (Terrys’ daughter) and her friend, who also nursed on Nauru, out for a nice meal tonight. They have decided on Greek, and we will have a traditional meal.
In the morning we will start the ‘domestic’ return run. No more Customs from here on!!
We will get the shuttle to the airport and fly to Jabiru for the night—only about 150nm.
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| Even tried Ozo--bloody liquid aniseed balls!! |
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| Plumber and daughter |
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| Happy Gleek Plicks |
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| Great Tucka pita, tzatzki and lamb, but the plumber had to have a 'Crownie". Debbie also joined us. |
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| Shennanigans on way home, to wash the Ozo out!! |
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Think he's a bit tired!!
Off to Jabiru today. A bit of a hold up getting out of Darwin due traffic. Eventually cleared to take off runway 11, climb to 3000 and track via VFR Route 2. Eventually found it on the Darwin VTC—these iPads are the best thing yet.
Then told to climb to 5,500, and at 30nm “resume own navigation".
Now Kakadu may excite many, and there are many visitors travelling here, but from the air it’s just one big swamp covered in green slime. No doubt the crocs love it, BUT a bloody National Park???—come on!!
Lumpy flying on approach to land at Jabiru, which is right next to the biggest uranium mine in the country—in the middle of a so-called National Park!!???
However, the ‘town’ is fun; we're staying in a nice cabin at the Lake View Lodge park—a great swimming pool, and not a very long shuffle to the Jabiru Club—great cheap meals, we hadn’t eaten all day, so had dinner for breakfast at 7pm.
Stray Gonads everywhere, doing their 'big lap'!!--guess I'll join them one day!!!
Tomorrow, it is off to Booloroola—285nm, but gradually working south, or at least south east.
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| Swamp |
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| Ditto |
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| People pay heaps for a joy flight over this!! |
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| Ditto |
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| Flash terminal--really a souvenir shop |
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| About here I guess |
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| Whale |
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| Laundry time |
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| The 'Club' |
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| Ditto |
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| Jabiru lake--nice spot to get taken by a croc |
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| Pretty harsh |
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Good breakfast
Up early in our cabin at Jabiru. Green frogs in the dunny interesting, I guess they couldn’t jump up and bite the goolies though!! Very tropical gardens here, and by 7am it is getting warm. We got a free ride out to the airfield and having fueled up the previous evening, pre-flighted and took off for Booloroola today. No breakfast except a rather aged muffin at the airport, and a bottle of soft drink each for the trip, 285nm today. Three GA Airvans and a couple of Cessna Caravans doing joy flights over the swamp that is Kakadu, or is it Kakadon't. What the land lubbers get to see from up where we are must have gone through to the keeper for us—must all be mates of Mr Attenborough or greenies with a twist.
The Arnhem land scenery out here is really something to behold, rocky outcrops for miles, slime covered ponds and not a sole in site. No surprise really that the place was declared a National ‘Treasure' at a conference of wankers in IRAN, of all places.
The plumber flew over 200 nauticals on this leg while I sat back and admired the scenery between nodding off. Wish he’d have a couple of lessons and get his licence!!.
Of dear we have a lot of useless, unattractive and unproductive land up here, and so many loosers going walkabout across it. All our fault of course.
But then again, Jabiru has that massive uranium mine right in the middle, which we took pics of on take off.
As usual we have flown into a south easterly wind since leaving Dili, averaged about 85 ground speed today.
Arrived at Booloroola mid afternoon, refueled for Adels Grove tomorrow and walked to the only pub.
The infrastructure in these places must cost a fortune with all this high netting fencing and mesh and chains surrounding everything.
But who am I to criticize or complain???—here we are in our airconditioned shipping container of which there are dozens at this pub, Oshkosh-type arm bands on so that if we order a drink we must have a meal!!
And we both had very nice beef parmas. Cooked by an Indian lad, and a ‘woofer’ from the Netherlands handling the bar.
So looking forward to Adels Grove tomorrow; it is a beautiful place and such a contrast to today.
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| Our Jabiru huts |
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| Interesting!! |
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| Lots of radiation in our precious National Park |
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| Uranium--Iran would love this place |
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| A runway in the middle of nowhere--why here?? |
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| Beautiful National Park |
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| Roper River |
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Groote Eylandt out to sea--far right (tele lens)
They cooked us each a toasted bacon and egg sandwich for breakfast, and then it was out to the airfield.
Only 202nm to Adels Grove from here, but as usual we had a south easterly, only seeing over 95Kts occasionally.
Over some very interesting marginal cattle country en route, passed a small ‘alternate’ called Robinson River, and later on the China Wall, quite spectacular—not to be confused with the Walls of China at Mungo N.S.W.
We crossed the N.T./QLD border with only forty miles to run to Adels Grove, we have now been in all states and territories except Tassie and Canberra.
The Grove is right beside the Century Mine which has yielded heaps of lead, zinc and silver.
The dirt runway at Adels is 750 metres-plenty long enough but a pretty narrow strip. The re-fuelling lady came out and we topped up, then she drove us the 750 metres or so back to the resort.
We were planning on two days here; it is a real oasis on Lawn Hill Creek. However, after one night in a pretty ordinary cabin ten times the cost of our usual shipping containers, we both decided to move on after one night here.
The plumber did however go for a good swim in the pretty creek which contains fresh water crocs but the locals assured us it is quite safe. And he seems to still have most of his anatomy.
The history of this place is very interesting, started as a botanical gardens by a Frenchman Albert de L…..something. Hence the name—it is worth googleing!!
However it has changed hands since I was here two years ago with John Livsey, and the staff are a pain in the gluteus maximus, and the prices have skyrocketed.
Tomorrow we will head off to Camooweal for a bladder stop, and then probably on to Boulia for the night.
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| All pics Adels except others labelled |
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| China Walls |
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| Ditto |
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| Local bonfire |
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Adels Runway
Checked out of Adels, and cancelled our second night. Then conned a ride out to our aircraft and pre-flighted for Camooweal. Only 76 naughticals, and we got almost 100Kts!!
Only one 182 on the ground at YCMW, and it seemed nobody was home!! So after an essential fluid emptying, we were back in the air, destination Boulia for the night. However, as we climbed out, Terry noticed a race track and it was possibly the annual Camooweal Cup—shit, did I cop it for that—he actually missed a day of racing; probably only camels though!!
A great flight to Boulia, almost 95-100Kts all the way. Landed, only aircraft on the ground, needed to phone for fuel but no coverage.
A nice 'ole bloke Ivan, who is doing his big lap on his own, took us into town—the publican of course would know about the fuel and how to get in into our tanks. Ivan is a retired LAME and told us in great detail how he had to fly in here in the late 40’s to fix a DH Rapide which had comprehensively shit one engine, and struggled in here.
We walked into the only pub, expecting to get a room with ease, only to find it was packed with about 150 locals having a ‘wake’ for a dearly departed local Councilor. He must have been more popular than many I’ve known!!!!
The pub was fully booked out, also the only motel, maybe we could scrape into the caravan park!!. Then a friendly bar lady phoned around and surprise, surprise, we got the last room in the local motel.
John, the proprietor, has a great beard—I hope it is in the pics tomorrow!!
I blogged for a while as we even have wifi here which was quite a surprise, whilst the plumber headed down to check that we could get a beer and a feed for breakfast some time later.
Wow—what a wake!!!! The place was still packed at 7pm, yet they still provided local steak and salad for tea, which was our breakfast!!
The locals were all as pissed as parrots, but no problems, one cop was out of town, and the other was himself, legless in the pub!!!!
After a great meal, we got a ride back to our motel with a couple well over 0.15, and are safely in out airconditioned room.
I have to check avgas supplies at Tibooburra at 10am, and tomorrow we will overnight at Windorah, which has fuel and a great pub with good cheap meals and nice accommodation. Perhaps also an extra rest day there!!
After a month of adventures, we are almost within gliding distance of YKTN!!
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| What a wake--still going 8pm |
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| Ditto |
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| Middle finger about Boulia |
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| Big Day!!!! |
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| Likes to show off HIS shirt too!! |
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| Getting low!! |
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| Oh Dear, Missed the Camel Cup???? |
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| Camooweal City |
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| Ditto |
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Earning his keep!!
The town hosts the Boulia Desert Sands Camel Races, one of the more important events on the Australian camel racing circuit. Extensive grazing of beef cattle is the predominant industry.
The area is best known for sightings of the Min Min lights, mysterious shimmering lights that appear at night. The lights are said to be caused by atmospheric refraction that occurs when cold air is trapped below warmer air, a phenomenon known as Fata Morgana.
And so we said our fond farewells to the Min Min lights, and Johno the motel keeper drove is out to the airfield.
I had been unable to check the avgas at Tibooburra, and will need to ring them from Windorah, which also has no phone coverage!!.. It could truncate or alter our route home.
Boulia is the hangover centre of the world today, but with clear heads, we took off into a 20Kt headwind for Windorah.
However, remarkably, passing through 6000 the ground speed was up to 115 Kts and we had a great run into Windorah.
We are now flying over the vast channel country, and crossed the many, many tributaries of the Diamantina river on its way through Birdsville into the Goyders Lagoon and then and eventually into lake Eyre.
The locals at Windorah hate a beer, but being a Sunday they were pretty restrained. However, we met a group of bikies on an outback trip and staying here.
And then a group of six blokes in a really quick aircraft which they have flown down from Jabiru today, and will get back to Essendon in three hours in the morning. It is some French thing like a PC12 on steroids, I’ll get the name in the morning and look it up. Several Mil I guess. But their ‘holiday’ at 30000 feet has nothing on our adventure, and our story (much modified) almost blew them out of the sky!!
‘Windorah is located 35 kilometres (22 mi) downstream from where the Thomson and Barcoo Rivers join to form the multi-channelled Cooper Creek, Windorah is known as "The Heart of the Channel Country" and offers a welcome and interesting stop off for travellers to Birdsville, Bedourie, Longreach and points West. While the Shire covers an area of 60,901 km², the town has a population of 60 people, with a further 40 living at surrounding stations.
Sheep and cattle grazing are the main stay of the district, however recently oil and gas industries have developed in the area. Many locals also work on the Shire Council and the Dingo Barrier Fence’.
I was able to phone Tibooboora on the communal phone here, and they have put my name on 100 litres of Avgas for tomorrow.
The plumber is just busting to get home and start fixing blocked septics tanks and leaking taps and roofs, so I have reluctantly relented to his great desire to resume his favourite pass time.
Hence, we will now be in Tib 244nm tomorrow night (Monday), Wentworth 278nm (Tuesday), and home to the centre of the known universe; beautiful Faraday on Wednesday!!!!!!!
I can’t wait, but am hoping the FULL story might help pay for the outrageous Indon rippoff!!!!!—after all I’ve paid off at least eight of their mortgages and they’ll still have plenty left for a massive party!!
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| Our host at motel Boulia |
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| Alien lines on way to Windorah? Right in middle of channel country--Must ask Mr Google |
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| This is why we need those bloody ASICS--Security aerodrome, miles of fencing, unlocked gates, no code or key needed to enter or leave!! |
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| AH!!--what an aircraft!!! Tied down, Windorah |
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| Bet be didn't just say 'blasted things' |
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| Bottom item most essential |
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| Windorah pub--classic outback |
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| Tourie sign |
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Parking meters
Getting a bit cool at Windorah, and the plumber complained about the airconditioning on full!!
A Violet Crumble for breakfast and out to the airport with the publican to refuel us with a few drops of Avgas, and the Socata with several hundred gallons of JetA1.
Their aircraft is a Socata turboprop affair, think they must be doing it a bit tough. Cost three and a half million quid!
Had a sit in the Socata TBM 850, eight leather seats, a TMI panel duplicated up the front, 385Kts cruise at 20000’.
We took off just before them, heading almost due south and climbing out at a respectable 75 Kts.
Then spoke to them on 123.45 to see if they were coming into Essendon yet—not quite, but climbing through 17000 at 200Kts, and about a hundred miles further out!!.. Poor buggers!!
We leveled out at 6000 and had a good run to YTIB.
On landing at YTIB the publican came out and topped us up with enough to get to Wentworth tomorrow, and drove us back into town. They even have wifi here now!!, but always phone first for fuel.
The plumber phoned his mate George in Wentworth and we will have a bed there tomorrow.
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| Cooper Creek approaching Tiboobura |
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| One of the many Channel Country producing oil wells |
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| The Dingo Fence Left wingtip in QLD AND NSW |
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| The border fence again |
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It DOES get warm here!!!!
We have now been adventuring for over a month. To celebrate our last day in the real outback, we had an early breakfast in the café next door to the pub. Bacon, eggs, tomatoes, sausages, baked beans, toast and coffee. When it arrived at our table, it reminded me of the same feed at Curtin Springs when the bloke delivering the plates said: "Are you the blokes that ordered eggs, sausages, bacon and all that shit”?? We were.
The publican had had a very late night as usual, and when we found him at 10am, we piled our things into the Land Cruiser and it was out to the airfield, about 6Km I’d guess.
In the air and off to Wentworth, getting a reasonable ground speed and the plumber and I sharing duties. As we tracked over Broken Hill, I decided to call in there and get an oil change and filter, we were a couple of hours overdue for new oil. This took over two hours with a new apprentice on the job. Also got them to cut the filter open as usual, and was delighted when the boss bloke said ‘that’s the cleanest filter I’ve seen for years’.
I watched the new apprentice like a hawk, but when we did our run up, the bloody landing light didn’t come on, so I guess the silly prick forgot to re-connect the lead before the cowl went back on.
We flew on to Wentworth, getting pretty late in the afternoon, landed there and just caught the fuel bloke and topped up for the run home tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!
George Warnes, the plumbers mate was also waiting and drove us into town for the obligatory pot or two.
Then back to his place for a great meal. He and Terry had a lot to catch up on, and I hit the sack pretty early and left them to it.
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| Pity 'bout the focus |
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| Hats everywhere |
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| It wasn't the beer what they succumbed to!! |
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| "I always have one at eleven!!" |
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| Great station profile and a wealth of bush knowledge |
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| Don't confuse the two pubs..... |
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....If you need avgas, don't book into this pub and then phone the other for Avgas--suddenly they won't have any, no exceptions!!!!
There was very heavy fog at Wentworth in the morning, and it didn’t clear properly until just on 11am. Also fog at Faraday and Peter McC kept us up to date until it had lifted back home.
George was a great host, and after a late breakfast took us out to the airfield and waited until the fog lifted.
We climbed out into a clear sky, with lots of traffic into and out of Mildura as we passed to the west of their main runway.
A great run home, I had a snooze for a while and the plumber kept things straight and level.
There was a bit of a built up abeam Wycheproof, and we were down to 2,500 past bendigo.
Of course we had do divert down low and buzz Heather, and Terry’s place next door to ours!!
A couple of great mates at YKTN were there to greet us, and Neil even opened the hangar, got my car out, and I taxied right into the UGlyDucklings’ spot. Col was also there to welcome us back and we had a coffee in the clubrooms before heading home.
A great roast lamb dinner was waiting for us at home and Terry and his girls joined us for a celebratory evening, also Nathan, Cearas’ boyfriend.
This adventure has many stories which could not be published here for various reasons, but our many regular followers who do deserve to hear all the good, and the bad, will do so in due course.
WHAT AN ASTONISHING ADVENTURE!!!!!!! AND THANKYOU TO OUR 0VER 4,000 FOLLOWERS!!
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| He sure is, now!!!! |
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| Caps made in Timor Leste--not China!!!! |
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| So pleased to be home with my darling |
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